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	<title>Archery Equipment</title>
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	<description>All about archery and deals on archery products</description>
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		<title>The Bow String</title>
		<link>http://www.archeryequipment.org/the-bow-string-2/</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 11 Jul 2010 16:22:29 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[Bow String]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.archeryequipment.org/?p=1196</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Second only to the bow in importance is the bow string. The diameter is limited to the width of the arrow nock and a good bow string must maintain a constant length under repeated stress and in changing weather conditions. The string is subjected to unusually hard wear at the arrow nocking point and at [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>S</strong>econd only to the bow in importance is the bow string. The diameter is limited to the width of the arrow nock and a good bow string must maintain a constant length under repeated stress and in changing weather conditions. The string is subjected to unusually hard wear at the arrow nocking point and at the bow nocks. Since good strings are expensive, replac­ing worn strings can become a major item of expense. Bow­men quickly learn that it is economical to make their own bow strings.<span></p>
<div>
<p>Of the tried and available materials, linen or flax sinew, hemp, and fortisan, a synthetic yarn of rayon, are used generally in the manufacture of bow strings.</p>
<p>Hemp is the cheapest and least desirable of the materials and is generally found on the lower priced line of bows. Linen and fortisan each have their advocates among the shooting fraternity. Both make up into excellent bow strings. The pre­vailing weight of opinion favors fortisan, from which its users claim lighter and stronger strings can be made. Fortisan was employed during the last war as parachute shroud material.</p>
<p>The knack of laying a bow string in the professional manner is not easily acquired. An explanation of the technique can be very confusing and leave the novice completely frustrated. A far better way to the goal is to watch a demonstration by one who already has the acquired ability, and then attempt your first bow string under your instructor&#8217;s supervision. This is par­ticularly applicable if you are going to use fortisan for the material, as the diameter of the individual strands is so small that it can be measured only by a micrometer. The weight of the bow is the determining factor in selecting the number of strands which are to be incorporated into the completed string. The manufacturer&#8217;s recommendation of the number of strands required for bows of different drawing weights is shown in the accompanying table:</p>
<p><strong>Drawing wt.                                                    Drawing  wt.</strong><br />
<strong>Strands            in lbs.                           Strands                        in lbs.</strong><br />
12                    20-25                           20                                40~45<br />
14                    25-30                           22                                45-50<br />
16                    3O-35                          24                                50-55<br />
18                    35-40                           26                                55-6o</p>
<p>Walter Perry in his book Bucks and Boivs, devotes a chapter to describing the construction of a bow string. The necessary jig and various steps in one method of &#8220;laying&#8221; a string are well illustrated.</p>
<p>The author learned to shoot a bow before fortisan was avail­able for bow strings. When it first appeared I adopted the &#8220;wait and see&#8221; view point or &#8220;let George do it&#8221; since the material was fairly expensive. It still is. A good fortisan bow string sells for $1.50. A second and compelling reason for sticking to linen as the material from which I made the bow strings used in my family was that I never had learned to lay a string in the professional manner used by the manufacturer or by my archer friends who have acquired the trick and have the necessary tools and jigs. Several seasons have passed and from personal observation I have concluded that the linen bow string built by a simple method taught me by an archer of my acquaintance is comparable to the hand laid fortisan bow string. Since three strings have been enough to last me an entire season I see no good reason for changing either the material or the simple method I use to build them.</p>
<p>The single loop string is rapidly losing in favor to the double loop. The one advantage of the single loop string is that it can be used on bows of different lengths. However, this is outweighed by the difficulty encountered in stringing the bow to the correct fistmele. Several trials may have to be made before the correct fistmele is achieved and the hitch must be loosened to lengthen or shorten the bow string for each attempt.Assuming that you have purchased a bow recently, it may or may not have included an extra bow string in the purchase price. You should always have a spare in your kit, and practice the habit of checking the string at intervals during a shoot. If your arrows suddenly begin to fall low on the target, check the height of the fistmele; it may be decreasing: If it is, check the bow string closely and discard it at once if it is showing signs of elongation due to -worn and broken fibres. If the bow string appears sound or you are uncertain of its condition, change bow strings; and if the trouble still persists and the fistmele increases, examine your bow carefully for signs of checks or cracks. The bow may be letting down, and to con­tinue to shoot it will result in a broken bow with possibilities of personal injuries. Even a sound bow may break as the tension is suddenly released when a string breaks.</p>
<p>The first step in making a double loop string for your bow is to make certain that the finished product will be of the required length. Select a place where three finishing nails may be driven in the woodwork at waist level and permitted to remain, Figure 39.<br />
<img title="archery equipment" src="http://archeryequipment.org/images/archeryequipment21_clip_image00.jpg" alt="archery equipment" width="399" height="59" /><br />
Figure  39.</p>
<p>Drive nail number 1, allowing it to project about one inch from the woodwork. Place one loop of your bow string over the nail and stretch the string to its full length. Drive the second nail in position so that the second loop may be slipped over the nail head and the bow string will be under slight tension. Drive the third nail one foot beyond the second nail in a prolongation of the line formed by the bow string. The three nails will now be at points on the same straight line. They are in the correct position and are all the jig that is actually required to build a bow string.</p>
<p>I use &#8220;Barbours&#8221; number 7 pure flax sinew manufactured especially for use in lock stitch machines by The Linen Thread Company, Inc., of New York for bow string material. A four ounce spool should sell for approximately $1.00 and from it you will be able to make bow strings for several seasons. Your local shoe repairman probably carries this material in stock or can secure it for you. In addition you will need a lump of beeswax about the size of an English walnut shell and a spool of number eight cotton thread. The latter item can generally be found in the wife&#8217;s sewing basket. I use four strands of linen for a 30 pound bow and five strands for a 40 pound bow.<br />
<img title="archery equipment" src="http://archeryequipment.org/images/archeryequipment21_clip_image004.jpg" alt="archery equipment" width="397" height="209" /></p>
<p>Tie the end of the linen cord to the number 1 nail, Fig­ure 39, and take a turn around the number 3 nail and then back and around number 1. Continue until you have the de­sired number of strands stretched lightly between numbers 1 and 3 nails. Take your penknife and sever the linen thread at the points where it passes around nails numbers 1 and 3. For a 40 pound bow you will now have five strands of equal length.</p>
<p>Measure seven inches in from one end of the strands and mark with a soft pencil. You will need both hands for the next operation. Use a vise, or a similar device, to clamp the bundle of strands together so that the ends project for a length of seven inches from the jaw. Wax these projecting strands thoroughly. The next step is to make a &#8220;pig tail plat.&#8221; Any feminine member of the family can teach you how to make one in a couple of minutes. Briefly the procedure is this: divide the individual strands into three groups. In this case two of the groups will be composed of two strands and the remaining strand will be the third group, a Figure 40. Twist the strands in group one a few times so that they form a single cord. Do the same for the strands in group number three. Now to plat; hold number two in place and bring cord number one, which is the cord on your left, up and over cord number two and lay it between cords numbered two and three, b Figure 40. Next take the outside group on the right, number three in this case and bring it up and over and lay it between numbers one and two. Maintain a slight pressure on each group of cords at all times so that the completed work is closely bound together. Repeat the performance, beginning each time at your left by picking up that group and laying it between the two re­maining groups, then to your right, etc.</p>
<p>The length of the plat that you will need is determined by measuring the distance around the loop of the string which came with your bow. Caution: each bow string has a large and a small loop. Construct yours accordingly. One loop is of suf­ficient diameter to permit it to slide down the upper bow limb when the bow is unbraced. A snug fitting lower loop stays in position while the bow is being braced or strung. Remove the work from the vise and bring the ends of the plat together. This will be the size of the completed loop. Slip the tip of the bow limb through the loop and check the loop for size. Remove the loop from the bow limb and clamp the loop in the vise, leav­ing about y8 inch of the ends of the plat projecting from the jaws of the vise.The next step is to tie in the loop. Separate the main strands into three groups similar in composition to the original three groups with which you started. Now combine a cord of two strands of the first group with a cord of a single strand of the second group, the cord of one strand of the first group with a cord of two strands of the second group, and the cord con­taining the remaining two strands of the first group with a like cord of the second group. The resultant will be a group of three cords composed of three, three, and four strands re­spectively. You are now ready to plat your tie in. Make this tie in plat about one and a quarter inches in length. Pull to straighten and wax the completed tie in. Cut off the projecting ends of the cords and your first loop is completed. For addi­tional strength you may wrap this tie in with a length of the number eight cotton thread in a manner described later in this chapter.</p>
<p>Place this loop over nail number one in Figure 39, and straighten out the five main strands and stretch them lightly around nail number two. Measure the circumference of the other loop of your original bow string which you are using as a pattern, and mark a point with a soft pencil on the main strands between nails numbered one and two, a distance from nail number two equal to half of the circumference of the loop. This marks the beginning of the plat.</p>
<p>Build the second loop just as you did the first. Do not be alarmed if the strands appear to get tangled as you plat the tie in of the second loop. The only precaution you should observe is to see that the apparent tangle remains a loose one. When you have completed the second loop, let the strands fall into position and string the bow with your new string. If you have had ordinary luck on your first attempt to build a string, the fistmele will not be quite high enough. Now unbrace the bow and remove the lower loop from the limb. Turn this loop several times between the thumb and forefinger so that a twist is formed in the main strands. Replace the loop and brace the bow. The result of this act is to shorten the bow string. Re­peat the operation, if necessary, until the fistmele measures the proper height after an arrow has been nocked and the bow brought to full draw several times. It should be apparent that any error made in determining the proper length to build the string must be made so that the completed string is longer than necessary. The method described will permit shortening a double looped string but there is no method by which it can be lengthened if it is built too short.</p>
<div><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Waxing</span></strong></div>
<p>With the new string installed on the bow, take a piece of bees wax and draw it up and down the bow string several times. Next, cut a piece of leather from the tongue of a discarded pair of shoes. The leather pad should measure about two inches by three inches. Stand the bow upright with the lower bow nock braced against the instep of one foot and one hand grasp­ing the upper limb near the nock, with the bow string toward you. Fold the leather around the string. Place the ends to­gether and grasp with the hand which is not holding the bow. Pull to apply pressure and slide the leather rapidly up and down the entire length of the bow string. The friction between the leather and the bow string will generate heat which will melt the bees wax and it will permeate the bow string.</p>
<p><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Serving</span></strong></p>
<p>The final operation in building a bow string that will give satisfactory service is to provide protection for the string at the point where the most wear will occur. This is that portion of the bow string with which the arrow nock and the fingers come in contact. This operation is called, &#8220;serving the string.&#8221; Nock an arrow and lay it across the arrow plate of the bow or on the arrow rest, if the bow is equipped with one. To determine the exact nocking point on the string use a carpenter&#8217;s square or a rectangular piece of cardboard to position the arrow so that it makes a 90 degree or right angle with the string. Mark the bow string at the top and bottom of the arrow nock with a soft lead pencil. Place your drawing fingers in their proper position on the bow string and mark additional points on the string about one inch beyond the space on the bow string occupied by your fingers. These latter points mark the portion of the bow string which needs additional reinforce­ment against wear.</p>
<p>Draw off several feet of the number eight cotton thread from the spool. Wax this length of thread thoroughly and then rewind it on the spool. Turn the bow to a horizontal position with the bow string toward you. Fix the bow firmly in this posi­tion, or if you wish, put cloth pads on the jaws of your vise, and clamp the handle in the vise with the string uppermost. Begin the serving at the point marked on the bow string nearest to the upper nock of the bow and work toward the lower bow nock.</p>
<p><img title="archery equipment" src="http://archeryequipment.org/images/archeryequipment21_clip_image006.jpg" alt="archery equipment" width="295" height="104" /><br />
Figure 41.</p>
<p>Figure 41 shows how the thread is secured at the be­ginning of the serving process. Make several loops; each one binds the end portion of the serving string or thread to the bow string. Draw the loops firm and snug, one against the other. Then clip off the exposed end of the serving thread. Be care­ful and cut away from the bow string to avoid an accidental severing of the completed portion of the work. Continue the winding until you reach the upper arrow nock mark. Reverse and wind back about one-quarter of an inch, then forward to form a small hump on the bow string. Figure 42.<br />
<img title="archery equipment" src="http://archeryequipment.org/images/archeryequipment21_clip_image008.jpg" alt="archery equipment" width="387" height="98" /><br />
Figure 42.</p>
<p>Continue serving the bow string to the lower arrow nock mark on the bow string. Transfer this mark to the winding or serving for refer­ence and wind or serve for an additional one-quarter of an inch. Reverse and wind back to the point or mark on the winding, which is the location of the bottom of the arrow nock; reverse the direction and wind forward again until you come to a point on the bow string about one-quarter of an inch from the lower limit of winding mark. The arrow nocking point has now been permanently fixed and the bow string is pro­tected against wear at its vulnerable section by the serving thread.</p>
<p>There remains only the trick of tieing off the serving thread. Hold a large loop of the serving thread at point a, Figure 42, and continue serving, but pass the spool inside the loop and wrap loosely toward the arrow nocking point. Take about eight turns around the bow string. Lay the spool down so that the serving thread lays along the top of the bow string at b in Figure 42. Grasp the loop near point a and continue winding. Regardless of the particular part of the operation on which you are engaged; the serving is always wound around the bow string in the same direction. Winding the large loop will bind that portion of the serving thread which extends to the spool, to the bow string, and each succeeding turn of the loop will remove one of the turns of the serving thread which you previously made through the loop and at the same time add a turn to the portion of the serving which is binding the spool end of the thread to the bow string. When you have unwound the final one of these eight temporary loops, hold the large loop under tension with a finishing nail held in the left hand. Grasp the spool with the right hand and draw the serving thread until the loop is drawn through and completely out of the serving. Pull the finishing nail just as the loop begins to bind the nail against the bow string. In performing this opera­tion make the direction of the draw along the bow string to prevent breaking the thread, which can readily be done if you pull at right angles to the bow string. When the final wrap has been drawn snugly in place, cut the thread and wax the serving thoroughly in the same manner the bow string was waxed. The new bow string is complete and ready to use.</p>
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		<title>Building a Tackle Box</title>
		<link>http://www.archeryequipment.org/building-a-tackle-box/</link>
		<comments>http://www.archeryequipment.org/building-a-tackle-box/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 11 Jul 2010 16:22:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Tackle Box]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.archeryequipment.org/?p=1194</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Baby powder, adhesive tape, paper clips, glue, pins, thread, rubber bands, pencil, file, pliers, bees wax; the list of items found in an archer&#8217;s kit is as endless as the variety of items found in a house wife&#8217;s sewing basket. The simile does not end there as the bowman too is apparently unable to discard [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>B</strong>aby powder, adhesive tape, paper clips, glue, pins, thread, rubber bands, pencil, file, pliers, bees wax; the list of items found in an archer&#8217;s kit is as endless as the variety of items found in a house wife&#8217;s sewing basket. The simile does not end there as the bowman too is apparently unable to discard an item of tackle which has outlived its usefulness. Look in any tackle box and a goodly portion of the contents is made up of worn out tabs, old shooting gloves, outsized arrow nocks, dis­carded bow sights, and perhaps several bow strings from bows which have long since been retired or relegated to the attic. Even the expert archer is a pushover for any new type of bow that comes on the market.<span></p>
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<p>Rarely does the novice appreciate the need of a tackle box, and it is seldom included in the items of tackle listed in his initial purchase. When the novice has been shooting for some time he learns that certain supplies must be at hand to make immediate repairs in the field. Broken arrow nocks must be re­placed, serving renewed, or loose fletching reglued. Many things can happen which will terminate an afternoon&#8217;s pleasure unless the required materials are available for replacement or repair. In the early stages of the game, a friend&#8217;s tackle box will generally produce a needed item so that shooting can be con­tinued. A few occasions demonstrate to the novice the impor­tance of the repair kit and the spare parts contained in the tackle box. Any one who has arrived at the shooting field only to discover that some essential part of his tackle has been left at home, immediately concludes that a tackle box is a necessity and not a luxury.</p>
<p>The average retail price of a tackle box is around twenty dollars. This figure is apparently a prohibitive price or the archer just naturally enjoys building his own tackle box.</p>
<p><img title="archery equipment" src="http://archeryequipment.org/images/archeryequipment22_clip_image00.jpg" alt="archery equipment" width="375" height="665" /></p>
<p>What ever the reason, a casual examination of the tackle boxes brought to any shoot will show a wide variation in design and workman­ship. Many of the boxes reflect the individual owner&#8217;s ideas on arrangement and accessibility of tackle. Some of the boxes are end-opening and others have a hinged top. Arrow racks may be fixed or removable and contain from one to four dozen arrows. Each tackle box is provided with a compartment which contains the repair kit and the necessary accessories. I have seen custom made boxes that served as a seat for the shooter while he waited his turn on the shooting line. If your hobbies include wood working, you will probably have chosen the type of tackle box that you believe will best meet your requirements, and need no further advise on its construction. Those of us who do not own a variety of wood working tools would be wise to undertake the task of constructing a tackle box of simple design which can be readily cut out and assembled with a minimum of hand tools.</p>
<p>The tackle box shown in the illustration, Figure 43, is rec­tangular in shape with an overall length of thirty inches, a width of ten inches, and a height of six and seven-eighths inches. A single partition separates the interior of the tackle box into two compartments. The larger compartment is six inches in width and provides space for the arrow rack which holds two dozen arrows. The remaining compartment provides ample space for ground and belt quivers, shooting glove, tabs, spares, and re­pair kit.</p>
<p>The only tools necessary to construct this tackle box are a saw, hammer, carpenter&#8217;s square, a brace or hand drill, and a yard stick which you can borrow from the family sewing room. The hand drill or brace is needed for the construction of the arrow rack. Two bits will be required, one bit should be 11/32 of an inch in diameter in order to drill the series of holes required for the dowels, and the other bit should have a diameter of 5/16 of an inch to drill the series of holes required for the arrows. If you are using wooden arrows, check their diameter to make certain that the dimension given is large enough to permit the entry of the arrow. If you have a friend who has a drill-press, lay out the work and take it to him. He will drill the required number of holes in a matter of a few minutes. A bottle of furniture glue, a one-quarter pound box of one inch by seventeen wire brads, a ten cent assortment of small brads and nails that can be purchased at the dime store, and a sheet of number one-half flint paper completes the list of materials. In the event you choose to use wood screws in­stead of wire brads to assemble the box, you will need in addition to your other tools a screw driver and a small bit to drill pilot holes for the screws to prevent splitting the wood. Wood screws are preferred because they have better holding qualities than the wire brads, although more labor is neces­sary to assemble the box.</p>
<p>The case may be constructed of plywood. If you choose to use plywood, ignore the bill of material accompanying the plan in Figure 43 and use three-eighths inch material for the sides and one-quarter inch material for the top and bottom. In­stead of plywood, I selected an easily worked wood such as clear Ponderosa pine. If the planing mill does not carry three-eighths inch finished stock a full ten inches in width, ask them to split a one inch by twelve inch board, seven feet and six inches in length, in half on their band saw; and then dress each half to exactly three-eighths of an inch in thickness by ten inches in width. I had this done and although the boards will cup slightly because of the changes in the internal stresses in the lumber, the boards will not split or crack if the work is completed within a reasonable length of time. The finished lumber should cost about $4.00. Lay out all cuts carefully as you do not have material to waste. Check your measurements and the work frequently in order to avoid mistakes. Note carefully that the illustration indicates that the top and bottom of the box are of different dimensions. The bottom fits inside the sides, while the top of the box which forms part of the lid covers the sides.</p>
<p>Begin the work by cutting out the sides of the case which measure thirty inches by four and one-quarter inches. Then cut out the ends. The overall width of the case is ten inches. From this dimension we must deduct twice the thickness of the finished lumber, in this case three-quarters of an inch, which makes the required length of the end pieces nine and one-quarter inches. Make a temporary assembly of this portion of the work. This will enable you to visualize the completed box and will serve as a check against your calculations for the dimen­sions of the top and bottom. The interior length of the case will measure twenty-nine and one-quarter inches. This dimen­sion controls the height of the arrow rack which is constructed so that its overall length does not exceed twenty-nine inches. Use the same order of procedure in constructing the lid of the tackle box.</p>
<p>The next step is to take down the temporary assembly, apply glue to all joints, reassemble and screw or nail the various parts together. To assure a good bond, apply the glue in accordance with the manufacturer&#8217;s direction and do not at­tempt to hurry the job.</p>
<p>To construct the arrow rack, cut three rectangular pieces to the dimensions shown in the detail of A and B, and round off the corners to one-quarter inch radius. With a pencil lay out the grid carefully as dimensioned in the detail in the illustration on one of the pieces. Fasten two of the pieces to­gether temporarily and bore all the holes through both pieces. Separate the pieces and using one for a template, bore the four corner 11/32 of an inch diameter holes half way through the remaining piece. This last piece is designated as C in the sketch of the assembled arrow rack.</p>
<p>Assemble the arrow rack by inserting the four 5/16 of an inch diameter dowels through the corner holes of pieces A and B. Just before each dowel reaches its final position, apply glue to the surface of the dowel. Apply glue to the bottom ends of the dowels and insert them in the sockets bored in piece C. Stand the arrow rack on its base C and check the vertical and horizontal alignment by inserting an arrow in several posi­tions in the rack. Make any adjustments necessary to permit free entry and remove the arrows. When you are satisfied with the alignment, drive one-half inch by twenty wire brads at each corner of plates A and B to fasten the plates and dowels securely in their final position. Invert the rack and drive brads from the bottom of plate C into the ends of each of the dowels.</p>
<p>The necessary hardware will cost about one dollar and fifty-five cents and consists of one pair of one inch by three inch hinges, two catches, one three inch handle, and the necessary complement of wood screws with button heads. Metal corners can be added to this hardware list if desired.</p>
<p>Use the flint paper to smooth all exposed edges, wipe clean with a dry cloth, and the box is ready for the finish coat. Mix two parts of turpentine and one part of boiled linseed oil to make about three-quarters of a cup of the mixture. Flow this mixture over all the surfaces. The wood will absorb most of this oil mixture on the first application. After an hour&#8217;s time, wipe off any excess with a piece of clean, lintless soft cloth. Repeat this oiling operation a day later. However, a longer period can be allowed to elapse without harm. A third oiling may be applied if it appears that the wood will absorb any more oil. Set the tackle box on four small wooden blocks so that air may pass freely over all the surfaces and let the box remain until it feels perfectly dry when rubbed lightly with the palm of the hand.</p>
<p>The tackle box is now ready for waxing. Use some of the liquid polishing wax that the family keeps on hand to polish the furniture or dig out your can of Simoniz that you use to polish the car and give the tackle box a good coat.</p>
<p>The total cost of your new tackle box, exclusive of labor, will approximate six dollars and fifty cents. You will quickly learn to keep all of the necessary tackle and accessories in the box where every item will be available when you need it. Sooner or later you will realize that a tackle box is a must. Don&#8217;t let the retail price discourage you from owning one. Build your own. The one described in this chapter has given several years of service and complete satisfaction.</p>
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		<title>Novelty Shoots</title>
		<link>http://www.archeryequipment.org/novelty-shoots/</link>
		<comments>http://www.archeryequipment.org/novelty-shoots/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 11 Jul 2010 16:21:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Novelty Shoots]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Monotony probably drives more archers into re­tirement than age or any other factor. Over the years, a sur­prisingly large number of archers who do not hunt have laid aside the bow because of lack of variety in the shoots conducted by their local clubs. When a club offers nothing but the op­portunity to acquire an [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>M</strong>onotony probably drives more archers into re­tirement than age or any other factor. Over the years, a sur­prisingly large number of archers who do not hunt have laid aside the bow because of lack of variety in the shoots conducted by their local clubs. When a club offers nothing but the op­portunity to acquire an A rating and planning is directed solely to that end, the average bowman loses interest in tramp­ing the same course and shooting at the same targets day after day with the only objective the possibility of picking up a few more points to increase the total score for the round. The unvaried sameness of target shooting dulls an archer&#8217;s interest in an even shorter length of time.<span></p>
<div>
<p>To most of us an A rating in either target or field archery is beyond our reach, and so we tire of the same old grind and quietly drop out of the picture, leaving the field to those who would be champions and to whom all else is of no im­portance. As a result, the turnover in club membership is en­tirely too high and serious thought should be given to develop a varied program of club activities which will contain attrac­tive features for all classes of shooters and every member of the family. A sport which has been highly recommended for all members of the family has suddenly gone sour and we are at a loss to know exactly what has happened.</p>
<p>To run a successful club, to hold and to increase the member­ship, club officials must revise their thinking. The important unit in a successful archery club is the family, and all club activities should be planned with the entertainment of the family the primary objective. In these days of high prices, cost of entertainment can take a large bite out of the average budget. Archery is a relatively inexpensive sport and one in which all members of the family can participate as a group. A club which plans a broad program with activities which take in even the non-shooting members of the family need never lack members.</p>
<p>Perhaps we would inconvenience a few hot-shots, but lets stop shoving the ladies and the juniors into the background. As one innovation we can have the family shoot as a team in a club shoot. Improvise a little and interest in shooting will show a decided improvement. Any father will get a lot of pleasure from shooting the course in company with his family. Com­bine the scores of the individual members of the family team and divide the total by the number of members in the family to get a &#8220;Family Score&#8221; for the round.</p>
<p>Shooting on a target range or the same units of a field course time after time is not a fair measure of a bowman&#8217;s skill re­gardless of his score. Listen to the &#8220;expert&#8221; alibi a low score when he shoots on a strange course and you have a fair idea of what happens when the archer gets away from the same old rounds which he has been shooting, due to lack of imagination on the part of those who are planning the activities.</p>
<p>Several novelty targets which provide plenty of fun for both novice and expert can be substituted for the regular targets. The new round can consist entirely of this type of target or they can be substituted for certain of the targets at intervals throughout the course. A sporting goods merchant sponsored one of these shoots at the regular monthly meeting of the local Fish and Game Club in a nearby town. The shoot, fol­lowed by a movie on archery in the club house, was well attended. Prizes for the winners, and food for both spectators and participants alike, were provided by the merchant. Visitors were welcome and no charge was made for registration. The winner was a free-style shooter who used a sight and shot a score of twenty-three out of a possible fifty. All targets were shot at unknown distances.</p>
<p>Five novelty targets comprised the round and the scoring was a variation of the method used in the regulation Broad-head Round.<br />
1st arrow          a hit      5  points<br />
2nd arrow        a hit      3  points<br />
3rd arrow         a hit      1  point<br />
If an archer scored with the first arrow, he did not shoot the other two. If he scored with the second arrow he did not shoot the third.</p>
<p>Target No. 1 &#8211; Twenty Yards. This target consisted of two eight inch diameter balloons, each suspended from a string thirty-six inches in length. They were pinned to one of the practice butts and a light breeze kept the balloons in motion.</p>
<p>Target No. 2 &#8211; Thirty Yards. Three life size crows made from light plywood. They were placed on a replica of a three strand wire fence, one on each wire, staggered so that they were not directly one above the other. A strip of wood about one-half inch square was nailed to the back of each crow at ap­proximately the mid-section and a one and one-half inch square block of inch thick wood was nailed back of the tip of the tail. With the tail weighted in this manner the crow will sit on the wire and a hit will knock it to the ground.</p>
<p>Target No. 3 &#8211; Fifteen Yards. This target consisted of a regu­lation clay bird used in trap and skeet shooting which was held in a wire rig made from a coat hanger and bent in the form of a pendulum eighteen inches in length. The pendulum was suspended from an arrow shaft inserted horizontally into a straw butt. For each shot the clay bird was raised to the nine o&#8217;clock position and released. Nice timing will break the clay bird as it swings in its arc. This provides quite a kick if you have never tried this stunt.</p>
<p>Target No. 4 &#8211; Forty Yards. A running deer silhouette. The construction of this target is fully described in Chapter 14, Moving Targets. A paper target of a running deer can be tacked to the face of the target. The attendant on this target, as a safety measure, should pull the target back to the starting point by walking away from the target. Use the monkey line attached to the target for this purpose. Under no circumstances should the attendant pull the target back to the starting post hand over hand. To stand at the starting post is extremely dangerous as the archers will come to full draw before the target starts its run and an arrow could slip from the shooter&#8217;s fingers accidently striking the attendant.</p>
<p>Target No. 5 &#8211; Eighty-five to Ninety Yards. A standard forty-eight inch circular paper target face is pinned on a straw butt located between eighty-five and ninety yards from the shoot­ing peg. An arrow striking any part of the target face inside the outer black line shall constitute a hit. It is not unusual for an expert target archer to underestimate the distance to such a target by as much as twenty percent. Scores of all contestants improved the second time they shot around the prescribed layout.</p>
<p>To set up the layout, prepare the numerals one to five in­clusive, ten inches high, black lettering on a white cardboard background. Pin the numerals on the target butts to indicate the order in which the course is to be shot. Make five shooting pegs from i by 2 inch material eighteen inches in length. Paint the upper 9 inches white and number the pegs from 1 to 5 inclusive to mark the shooting position for the corresponding numbered target. Choose the location of the targets carefully so that the participants will not have to walk along or cross the line of flight of any target when it is in use. Make provisions for spectators so that they will not be endangered. A field cap­tain should be appointed to control the shoot and no practice should be permitted prior to the competition on the novelty targets. High angle shots at flying targets have not been in­cluded in this layout as they offer little chance for a hit to the ordinary bowman and too much time is wasted retrieving arrows. Arrows fletched especially for this type of shooting are not ordinarily carried in the archer&#8217;s quiver.</p>
<p>Prior to the institution of the forty hour work week, little leisure time was available to the ordinary individual except Sun­day. The practice of holding tournaments on Sunday was cus­tomary in the past and has been carried over to a large extent to the present day. Starting time is generally set for 10:00 a.m. It has become increasingly evident that numbers of our people do not attend these Sunday tournaments because they conflict with morning church services. Recently some of the newly organized archery federations have wisely voted to start all Sunday tournaments at 2:00 p.m. Daylight saving time and the long summer evenings provide plenty of time for com­pletion of the standard target and field rounds. This leaves the mornings free for the archer to attend the church of his choice. The practice is recommended to clubs who would like to increase attendance at their Sunday tournaments.</p>
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<p></span></p>
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		<title>Hunting by the Map</title>
		<link>http://www.archeryequipment.org/hunting-by-the-map/</link>
		<comments>http://www.archeryequipment.org/hunting-by-the-map/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 11 Jul 2010 16:21:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Hunting Maps]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.archeryequipment.org/?p=1190</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[In the Allegheny National Forest, the United States Forest Service is confronted with the problem of supporting an unbalanced sex ratio in the deer herd on an overbrowsed range. Under an archaic buck rule only a distressingly small percentage of the deer population contained within the boun­daries of the forest is legally huntable during the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>I</strong>n the Allegheny National Forest, the United States Forest Service is confronted with the problem of supporting an unbalanced sex ratio in the deer herd on an overbrowsed range. Under an archaic buck rule only a distressingly small percentage of the deer population contained within the boun­daries of the forest is legally huntable during the open season, and the big management problem centers around an inade­quate harvest of the deer. Poor hunter distribution, which re­sults in a large concentration of hunters in some areas and too few in others, is also a serious problem wherever deer hunters take to the woods; and on the Allegheny National Forest despite relatively flat topography, an adequate road system, and miles of pipe line and power line rights-of-way to hike over, hunters tend to remain near the highways and seldom venture into the back country. As a result, the harvest of deer is not uniform throughout the forest. In the State of West Virginia, Game officials report that hunters crowd cer­tain portions of the range, while other areas where hunting conditions are equally good are ignored.</p>
<p><span>Unfamiliar terrain and oft told tales of &#8220;lost&#8221; hunters makes the average person wary of losing sight of the highway and his parked car, or leaving the valley in which his camp is located. Few hunters have taken the time or made any effort to learn to use a compass and to read a topographic map. I can recall only one instance where a topographic map of the locality was hanging on the wall of the hunting lodge. This was in the Northwestern portion of the State of Maine where roads in the woods were infrequent and an overlay marking several blazed trails had been drawn on the map. The visitor who studied the map and confined his route to a blazed trail could travel through the woods with confidence to his des­tination. It is entirely possible to sit comfortably at home and lay out a day&#8217;s hunt in the deer range on a United States Geo­logical Survey topographic map, just as you plan your auto­mobile route on a highway map or locate a definite place in a city or town by the use of a street map. With a little practice you can look at a topographic map and visualize the hills and valleys, the streams, and road system of the area in which you intend to hunt.</span></p>
<p><span>Features represented on a topographic map are of three different kinds: (i) inequalities of the earth&#8217;s surface called &#8220;relief&#8221;, as: hills, valleys, plains, plateaus, and mountains; (2) distribution of water, called &#8220;drainage,&#8221; as: streams, lakes, and swamps; and (3) the works of man, called &#8220;culture,&#8221; as: roads, railroads, utility lines, boundaries, houses, villages, and cities.</span></p>
<p><span>The topographic map of the United States is published in sheets 20 by 161/2 inches. The map occupies about 171/2 inches of height and 111/2 to 16 inches of width, the latter dimension varying with the latitude. The four cornered division of land shown on a single sheet is called a &#8220;quadrangle&#8221; and it covers 15 minutes of latitude by 15 minutes of longitude on a &#8220;scale&#8221; of 1:62500. Scale is defined as the relation between distance in nature and corresponding distance on a map. Since there are 63,360 inches in a mile, the scale of 1:62500, or as it is fre­quently written as a fraction 1/62500 represents approximately 1 mile on the ground to one inch on the map. Thus a square of the map surface measuring 1 inch on each side repre­sents about 1 square mile of the earth&#8217;s surface, and a single quadrangle sheet can depict an area of approximately 250 square miles of the territory in which you plan to hunt. The margin of these sheets, being only parts of one great map of the United States, disregard political boundary lines, such as those of states, counties, and townships. To each sheet, and to the quadrangle which it represents, is given the name of some well known town or natural feature within its limits, and at the sides and corners of each sheet the names of adjacent sheets, if they have been published, are printed. The scale of 1:62,500 is used for the thickly settled or industrially important parts of the United States. For the greater part of the country an intermediate scale of about two miles to the inch is employed. A third and still smaller scale of about four miles to the inch; i.e., 1:250,000 has been used in the desert regions of the far West.</span></p>
<p><span>Culture on the map is shown by conventional signs, and these man-made works are illustrated on the side margin or the back of the individual sheet. On the map, culture is shown in black, in which color all lettering also is printed. Boundaries, such as state, county, city, reservation, etc. are shown by broken lines of different weights. Cities are marked by black blocks, representing the built-up portions, and country houses by small black blocks. Roads are shown by fine double lines (full for the better roads, dotted for the inferior ones), trails by single dotted lines, and railroads by full black lines with cross lines.</span></p>
<p><span>All water features are shown in blue, the smaller streams and canals in full blue lines, and the larger streams, lakes, and the sea by blue water-lining. Certain streams, however, which flow during only a part of the year, their beds being dry at other times, are shown, not by full lines, but by lines of dots and dashes. Ponds which are dry for a part of the year are shown by oblique parallel lines. Salt water marshes are shown by hori­zontal ruling interspersed with tufts of blue, and freshwater swamps and marshes by blue tufts with broken horizontal lines.</span></p>
<p><span>Relief is shown by contour lines in brown. Each contour passes through points which have the same altitude. One who follows a contour on the ground will go neither uphill or down­hill, but on the level. By the use of contours, not only are the shapes of the plains, hills, and mountains shown, but also the elevations. The line of the seacoast itself is a contour line, the datum or zero of elevation being mean sea level. The contour line at, say, 20 feet above sea level is the line that would be the sea coast if the sea were to rise or the land were to sink 20 feet. Such a line runs back up the valleys and forward around the points of hills and spurs. On a gentle slope this contour line is far from the present coast line, while on a steep slope it is near it. Thus a succession of these contour lines far apart on the map indicates a gentle slope; if close together, a steep slope; and if the contours run together in one line, as if each were vertically under the one above it, they indicate a cliff. In many parts of the country there are depressions or hollows with no outlets. The contours of course surround these, just as they surround hills. These small hollows known as &#8220;sinks&#8221; are usually indicated by &#8220;hachures,&#8221; or short dashes, on the inside of the curve. The contour interval, or the vertical distance in feet between one contour and the next, is stated at the bottom of each map. This interval varies from quadrangle to quadrangle according to the character of the area mapped. In a flat country it may be as small as ten feet; in a mountainous country it may be 200 feet. Certain contours, usually every fifth one, are accompanied by figures stating the elevation in feet above sea level. The heights of many definite points, such as road intersections, railroad crossings, railroad stations, summits, water surfaces, triangula-tion stations, are also given. The figures in each case are placed close to the point to which they apply. At the bottom of each map sheet the scale of the map is expressed in three ways: by a graduated line representing miles and parts of miles in inches, by a similar line indicating distance in the metric system, which is the system of measurement used by the French, and by a numerical fraction which has been previously explained.</span></p>
<p><span>The manner in which contours express elevation, form, and grade is shown in the following sketch and corresponding con­tour map, Figure 44. If we can grasp the significance of these contour lines, the physical aspects of the terrain in an unex­plored section of our hunting territory will be familiar to us after we have made a close study of the topographic map. The sketch represents a river valley between two hills as we would see it from an airplane approaching the coast line from the sea. In the foreground is the sea, with a bay which is partly closed by a hooked sand bar. On each side of the valley is a terrace. From the terrace on the right a hill rises gradually, while from that on the left the ground ascends steeply, forming a precipice. Contrasted with this precipice is the gentle slope from its top toward the left. In the map each of these features is indicated, directly beneath its position in the sketch, by con­tours.<br />
<img title="archery equipment" src="http://archeryequipment.org/images/archeryequipment24_clip_image00.jpg" alt="archery equipment" width="363" height="325" /><br />
Figure 44.</span></p>
<p><span> </span></p>
<p><span>The following explanation may make clearer the manner in which these contours trace out elevation, form, and grade: A contour, we have learned, indicates a certain height above sea level. In the illustration, the contour interval, which is the vertical distance between adjoining contours, is shown as 50 feet; therefore the contours are drawn at 50, 100, 150, and 200 feet, and so on, above mean sea level. In the space between any two contours are found elevations above the lower and below the higher contour. Thus the contour at 150 feet falls just below the edge of the terrace, while that at 200 lies above the terrace; therefore all points on the terrace, the portion of the land mass designated A in the sketch, are shown to be more than 150 but less than 200 feet above the sea. The summit of the higher hill is marked 670 feet above the sea; accordingly it is surrounded by the 650 foot contour.</span></p>
<p><span>Topographic maps may be obtained on application to the Director, United States Geological Survey, Washington, D. C. A circular showing how they are covered by each of the quad­rangle sheets for any given state is distributed free and may be had upon request. With this circular you can select those quad­rangle sheets which are of particular interest to you. If you are in doubt as to your ability to read one of these topographic maps and are intimately acquainted with particular portions of the territory in which you hunt, I strongly suggest that you procure the quadrangle sheet of that particular area and apply the principles explained in this text to a careful study of that particular area. You will be surprised how quickly you will be able to identify certain distinguishing land marks on the map with which you are personally familiar. Without leaving your own fireside you can extend your explorations of your hunting territory into the areas which you have not visited and plan with confidence to hunt in these areas during the coming open season.</span></p>
<p><span>Since the surveys for these maps have been in progress since 1882, and man-made works are continually added or removed from the landscape, you must bear in mind constantly that the date of the map must be taken into consideration, in attempting to locate or identify man-made works. The date of the survey is always printed on each quadrangle sheet. Since many of these surveys in the East were made at the turn of the century, con­siderable changes have taken place since that time: railroads have been abandoned, new highways have been built, many local roads have long since been closed against vehicular traffic, etc. However, not all signs of these former works have dis­appeared; the old railroad grade will still be in evidence although trees thirty years of age may be growing on its surface; and although they may be blocked by slides, blow downs, or washed away in some spots, sufficient evidence still remains to identify the location of the former highway. The foundation walls may be all that remains of a house whose location is shown. Each of these features provides an excellent check point by which you can determine your exact location with reference to the map. If the map is to serve as a reliable guide to a hunter, there is one inflexible rule which cannot be disregarded: the starting point of the hunt must be accurately located on the topographic map, a course must be determined in advance, land marks se­lected by which the course can be verified, and last but not least you must have faith in the accuracy of the topographic map. They can be, but seldom are in error. Within the past decade, many areas covered by early issues have been resurveyed and re­mapped. Since topographic sheets are frequently sold by com­mercial establishments which purchase them in quantity from the Federal Government, make certain that you are buying maps compiled from the latest surveys. The descriptive litera­ture supplied by the Director of the Geological Survey will contain this information.</span></p>
<p><span>Next season, instead of wondering what lies on the other side of the ridge, take a look at your topographic map and if the area appeals to you it can be hunted safely through the knowledge you have acquired from a study of your topo­graphic map.</span></p>
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		<title>The Needle Points North</title>
		<link>http://www.archeryequipment.org/the-needle-points-north/</link>
		<comments>http://www.archeryequipment.org/the-needle-points-north/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 11 Jul 2010 16:20:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Compass]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.archeryequipment.org/?p=1188</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[We have been like hunters who have lost the points of the heavens and from whom the sun has been held for days,&#8217; said Hawk-eye, turning away from his companions. The Last of the Mohicans. J. Fenimore Cooper. Had Hawk-eye been able to obtain a compass he would have rated it second only in value [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>We have been like hunters who have lost the points of the heavens and from whom the sun has been held for days,&#8217; said Hawk-eye, turning away from his companions. The Last of the Mohicans.</p>
<div>
<p><span>J. Fenimore Cooper.</span></p>
<p><span><strong>H</strong>ad Hawk-eye been able to obtain a compass he would have rated it second only in value to his famous rifle &#8220;kill-deer.&#8221; In the Leather Stocking Tales, Cooper&#8217;s scouts are represented as telling directions, when the sun was obscured, by observing on which side of a tree of the forest the moss grew thickest. As a youngster playing at scouting I made many attempts to put this little gem of scouting lore into practice without any success, and have long since learned to depend on the magnetic compass for direction. The sun is a dependable guide, but there is no assurance that it will be visable when the need to determine a proper course is an immediate necessity.</span></p>
<p><span>A simple incident proved to me the value of a pocket com­pass. With a companion, I was hunting birds on a day in late November over terrain which was relatively flat, and made up of abandoned farm lands owned by a mining company. The day was overcast but the sun was visable through the haze. We were hunting over land with which we were well acquainted and knew the general direction to hunt in order to return to a summer camp where we had parked our car. About three in the afternoon the wind increased in force, and suddenly it began to snow. As the snow flakes increased in numbers, it became increasingly difficult to see for any distance. We had enjoyed a good day and the biting wind was rapidly making us feel un­comfortable. We started to return to the car, and in the interval of time that it took to walk about 1oo yards, large flakes of snow blown almost horizontally across our front completely obliterated the familiar landscape and confined our field of vision, at most, to a few rods. While not unduly alarmed, the prospect of spending any considerable time, under such condi­tions, in the open was not pleasant to contemplate. Even the two setters were satisfied to remain at heel and did not have to be admonished at intervals to remain there.</span></p>
<p><span>The wind tore at our clothing in sudden gusts and we ap­peared to be walking first in one direction and then a moment later on another, as the wind veered from one point to another. A query from my hunting companion, who asked, &#8220;Do you know the way to the car?&#8221; resulted in an abrupt stop for con­sultation. We were agreed on the general direction which we should travel to reach the car. and my pocket compass was quickly consulted to determine that direction. As we were unable to take a bearing on a distant object and walk toward it, I held the compass fixed so that the needle coincided with the North point of the card. Keeping my body and the compass in the same relative position, I turned slowly around until the North end of the needle pointed to the desired bearing. Thus in a manner exactly similar to the method a helmsman uses to steer a vessel by the magnetic compass, we walked through the blinding snow storm. In a short time the land began to dip away from us as we entered a small draw, which led to a spring we recognized as the source of the water supply for the summer house. Chilled fingers quickly pocketed the compass as we knew we were within thirty yards, more or less, of the house, which was quickly located. Had we actually been in any danger? Well, the storm kept up until dusk and I assure you that with­out the compass and a fair amount of know-how regarding its use, we might have suffered severely from the cold before we located a road that would have brought us eventually to the shelter of some farm house.</span></p>
<p><span> To make use of the magnetic compass it is essential to under­stand the principal on which it works and the degree of ac­curacy that can be obtained in determining a true bearing by its use. The lines of force of the earth&#8217;s magnetic field are em­ployed to direct a needle mounted on a pivot so that it only moves freely in a horizontal plane, and therefore the horizontal component of the earth&#8217;s force alone directs it. The direction assumed by the needle is not generally toward the geographic North but, Figure 45, diverges toward the East or West of it. This failure of the needle to point to the true North is called the magnetic declination of the needle.<br />
<img title="archery equipment" src="http://archeryequipment.org/images/archeryequipment25_clip_image00.jpg" alt="archery equipment" width="385" height="333" /><br />
Figure 45.</p>
<p>Apart from local disturbances (such as those due to iron in the soil, or in mines, trap rock, articles made of iron or steel and carried on or about the person, steel in structures, etc., which cause the needle to be de­flected from the magnetic meridian by a horizontal angle called the &#8220;deviation&#8221; of the compass) the declination varies from place to place at a given time, and from time to time at a given place. However, in the United States there is an &#8220;agonic line&#8221; or line of no declination marked on the chart as O degrees, entering the country at present in the State of Michigan and leaving it in South Carolina. Along this line, the needle normally points approximately true north and south; but, at points not on or near the agonic line, the north end of the needle tends toward the line. In other words, at points east of the agonic line the declination is west, and vice versa; and this declination increases with the distance of the point from the agonic line, reaching at present 23 degrees west in Maine and 24 degrees east in the State of Washington.</p>
<p><img title="archery equipment" src="http://archeryequipment.org/images/archeryequipment25_clip_image004.jpg" alt="archery equipment" width="386" height="269" /><br />
Figure  46.</p>
<p>Therefore, our first problem is to deter­mine the magnetic declination in the locality in which the com­pass is to be used. On each quadrangle sheet of the United States Geological Survey topographic maps the magnetic dec­lination or magnetic North, corresponding to the year of the survey for the area, is depicted on the margin of the sheet, Figure 46. Thus, if we were hunting in North Central Penn­sylvania and desired to determine true North by the compass, we would revolve the compass slowly in a clockwise direction until the needle read North 7 degrees West (N 70 W). The North-South line of the compass card would then point true North and South. The magnetic compass is subject to other variations, such as a daily swing, an annual change, and the effect of magnetic storms. These changes are important to the surveyor, but for the hunter&#8217;s purpose they may be disregarded.</span><span>The standard compass card is divided into 32 points and each of the four quarters or quadrants is divided also into 90 degrees. A satisfactory pocket compass is about the size of a watch and should be enclosed in a Hunter case to protect the glass crystal. A mechanical means to hold the needle off the pivot when the compass is not in use is highly desirable. This prevents excessive wear of the pivot. A number of these devices operate auto­matically when the metal case is closed. This is a desirable feature. Eight of the cardinal points of the compass, to wit: N, NE, E, SE, S, SW, W, and NW, are all that are necessary for the pocket variety of compass. An outer circle subdivided into four quadrants, each containing ninety degrees, completes the pocket compass card. Compass directions are expressed either as &#8220;bearings&#8221; or &#8220;azimuths,&#8221; or by naming one of the cardinal points. Bearings are measured in each quadrant of the compass from o° to oo°. Azimuths are measured in a clock-wise direction from o° (North point, generally embellished with a fleur-de-lis) to 3600. Typical directions are shown in Figure 37, measured both by bearing and azimuth.</span></p>
<p><span> Figure 47 is diagramatic only. The heavy black line does not represent the position of the needle in a fixed card compass; as the title to the figure specifically states, the heavy black line indicates a direction. The needle always points to the magnetic North. You can think of it remaining stationary and the com­pass box revolving beneath the needle. We have reached the critical hurdle in learning to read a fixed card compass.</span><span>Suppose our destination is geographically N 40 ° W of our present location. How will the compass appear to us so that we can travel in the required direction and reach our destina­tion? The required compass setting is shown in Figure 48. No, the drawing and title in Figure 48 are not incorrect. Remember, the needle can never point in any direction but magnetic North. There is only one compass point where the needle and the compass point coincide and that is when the direction you wish to travel is magnetic North. (For the sake of simplicity we limit our discussion to the north end of the needle.</span></p>
<p><span>The  fore­going statements are true also for  South and the south end of the needle).</span></p>
<p><span><img title="archery equipment" src="http://archeryequipment.org/images/archeryequipment25_clip_image006.jpg" alt="archery equipment" width="369" height="371" /><br />
Figure 47.<br />
The question immediately arises in the reader&#8217;s mind: How is the direction of travel ascertained by use of the magnetic com­pass? There are two common methods which may be employed. The first method described hereafter is probably the simpler method. Hold the compass in the hand and revolve the box slowly until the north point on the card is directly under the north end of the needle. In the northern hemisphere, the north end of the needle dips toward the earth; and to bring the needle to a horizontal position, a bit of fine wire is wrapped around the southern portion of the needle. Thus the north end of the needle is readily identified. The needle will now be in the posi­tion indicated by the letters N and S in a Figure 47.<br />
</span></p>
<div><span><img title="archery equipment" src="http://archeryequipment.org/images/archeryequipment25_clip_image008.jpg" alt="archery equipment" hspace="3" width="405" height="464" /><br />
Figure  48.<br />
<img title="archery equipment" src="http://archeryequipment.org/images/archeryequipment25_clip_image010.jpg" alt="archery equipment" width="408" height="582" /><br />
Figure  49. </span><span> </span></p>
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<p><span>Now pro­ject an imaginary directional line of sight from the center of the compass needle through the 400 mark located on the arc of the compass card between the north point and the letter W. This sight is represented by the heavy black line in the draw­ing, and it is pointing out from the center of the compass on the magnetic bearing N 400 W. However, our destination is N 400 W of the geographic or true North and we must com­pensate for the decimation of the needle in our portion of the</span></p>
<p><span> </span><span>United States. Suppose we use the declination in North Central Pennsylvania, which is 70, and for reasons previously explained we know that the compass needle is pointing 70 west of true North. Therefore, we rotate the compass clockwise until the north point of the compass card is 7° to the observer&#8217;s right or east of the north end of the compass needle. Figure 50. The N-S line of the compass card is now pointing to the true or geographical North. Now if we sight along our imaginary directional line from the center of the compass needle through the 400 mark located in the N W quadrant, the line of sight is a true geographical bearing N 40 ° W. Sight along this imagi­nary line to some distant point; walk to the point, and repeat the process until you arrive at your destination.</span></p>
<p><span> The second method: North on your topographic map is at the top of the sheet, and as you look at the map, East is to your own right and West your own left, while South is at the bot­tom of the sheet. Locate true North with your compass and lay the map flat with the top pointing toward the North (Geo­graphic or true North). This is called &#8220;orienting,&#8221; a map, Fig­ure 49. Your present location is designated on the map by point marked a and you wish to travel to point marked b. Draw a straight line through these two points on the map with a soft pencil, and lay your compass on the map so that the center of the needle is directly over point a, which marks your present position, and the north point of the compass card is 70 east of the north end of the needle, Figure 50. Now, since you wish to travel toward point b, which is, by inspection, North and West of your present position on the map, rotate the compass box counter clockwise through 400 degrees of arc until the north and south points of the compass card coincide with the line (a-b) Figure 51, which you drew on the map to represent the course you must follow to reach your destination. Read the figure at the north point of the compass needle, which in this case is 330. Ignore the fact that the north end of the needle is in the north east compass quadrant, as you have already deter­mined by inspection of the map that the line (a-b) is pointing in a northwest direction.</p>
<p><img title="archery equipment" src="http://archeryequipment.org/images/archeryequipment25_clip_image01.jpg" alt="archery equipment" width="390" height="578" /><br />
Figure  50. </span><span> </span></p>
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<div><span>Therefore your correct compass read­ing for the course (a-b) is 40° minus 70, which is N 330 W, which in turn is exactly the same reading shown in Figure 48. Time and distance are the two factors that must be given consideration in planning any hunt. How long does it take you to travel a mile over typical terrain in your hunting territory under conditions governed by a hunt? You will need to know before you can lay out a projected hunt on a topographic map. By inspection select two points on the topographic map which you have scaled and found to be one mile apart. Walk from point to point in the manner in which you usually hunt and record the time interval necessary to cover the distance. If your hunting territory is mountainous, record the time necessary to hunt from a valley to the crest of the adjoining ridge. Make several of these jaunts and you will have obtained fairly accurate data on which to plan a hunt. For example, let us suppose that you have settled on a figure of a mile an hour as your rate of forward progress during a hunt. A reasonable estimate would be that during a morning&#8217;s hunt of four hours duration you could expect to cover a map distance of four miles. On the usual topographic map scale, one inch on the map represents approxi­mately one mile on the ground. Lay out your choice of route on your topographic sheet, beginning at your cabin, so that the total combined length of all the courses measures four inches. The last course should of course end at your starting point. The course outlined on the map represents an air-line distance of four miles on the ground. Over rough terrain you will of course travel farther than the four miles scaled on the map, since you will have to walk up and down hills. Determine the compass bearing and time interval required to travel each leg of your course, and mark the compass bearing on each leg of the route, together with the estimated time of arrival at cer­tain check points which you have noted on the map and will be able to identify on the ground. If you have projected a route on your map which carries you into new territory, take your time, select definite land marks on the course and walk to them even if a detour is required along the way; check your course frequently, and follow the bearing given by your com­pass.</span></div>
<div><span><img title="archery equipment" src="http://archeryequipment.org/images/archeryequipment25_clip_image014.jpg" alt="archery equipment" width="414" height="596" /><br />
Figure  51. </span><span> </span></p>
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<p><span>Since the compass will not register accurately if near your gun or axe, or any other iron or steel that may be on or near your person, and you are in doubt about a direction, move a short distance and make a check reading. If you are convinced that North is in some other direction than that indicated by your compass, I suggest that you defer to the compass north. After all, you could be wrong and probably are. No one will know you lost an argument to your compass and it will bring you safely back to camp. </span><span> </span></p>
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		<title>Dressing, Preserving, and Cooking Venison</title>
		<link>http://www.archeryequipment.org/dressing-preserving-and-cooking-venison/</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 11 Jul 2010 16:20:10 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[Foods]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Venison that has been properly dressed, well pre­served, and, correctly cooked is delicious food. Cooking tests made in the School of Home Economics of the Pennsylvania State University indicated that correctly cooked venison which had been properly cared for after killing probably could not be distinguished from beef of a similar grade and I have [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>V</strong>enison that has been properly dressed, well pre­served, and, correctly cooked is delicious food. Cooking tests made in the School of Home Economics of the Pennsylvania State University indicated that correctly cooked venison which had been properly cared for after killing probably could not be distinguished from beef of a similar grade and I have eaten pan-broiled rib chops that fully substantiated the conclusions reached in the tests.</p>
<p><span>In a number of States the special archery big game season occurs during the time of year when the temperature may range from below freezing at night to the middle 80s during the daytime hours. To preserve the meat in prime condition when the weather is warm is a major problem, and a kill re­quires prompt attention. Carelessness, delay in dressing out a deer, or other big game animal, or failure to cool the carcass completely and quickly are to be avoided. Too often much of the meat is not fit to eat as the result of careless handling.</span></p>
<p><span>Transporting the meat out of the hunting territory promptly and in good condition is your objective. The quicker the car­cass is under refrigeration the better the chances that you will have a goodly supply of meat which your family and friends will enjoy. Much of the deer range in the East is adjacent and close to populated areas, and provided you can reach a refrigera­tion plant within an hour from the time you have killed your deer, it is only necessary to hog-dress the animal at the site of the kill. Transport the deer in the open trunk of your car or on a car-top carrier. Do not lay the deer between the fender and the hot hood of the automobile.</span></p>
<p><span>If more than one hour, but not to exceed four hours, is required for the trip on a warm day, the deer should be dressed out completely and the body cavity propped open to permit free circulation of air. However, if you cannot make arrange­ments to get the meat under refrigeration within the time limits stated, it will require special precautions during spells of warm weather to preserve the meat in good condition. The carcass should be skinned and quartered and hung in a coo], shady place which has good ventilation and permits the free circulation of fresh air. A basement or a spring house at your camp makes a suitable place. It should be screened against flies or the carcass wrapped with cheese cloth. The meat can be cooled out very satisfactorily by separating the quarters into wholesale cuts, placing the individual pieces in large lard cans, and immersing the cans in spring water. Lay a large flat stone on the top of the open can which has been covered with cheese cloth. The added weight will help to keep the can submerged about three-quarters of its height. The fewer the pieces of meat in each can, the more effective will be the cooling out process. Meat can be kept at camp in this manner until it is convenient to transport it to a refrigeration plant.</span></p>
<p><span>It should be apparent to the reader who has watched suc­cessful deer hunters in large numbers leaving the hunting areas with deer strapped to the hood of the automobile that the neces­sary precautions to assure a supply of edible venison are ignored by a large number of hunters. The same practices used to butcher live stock and prepare the meat for market are applicable to deer. Can you conceive of any one killing a steer, dressing out the animal, and then permitting the carcass to hang in the open during warm weather for any appreciable length of time? Nevertheless this is exactly what happens to hundreds of big game animals and the end result of such treat­ment is that the meat finally winds up in the garbage pail or at the dog house. When you have dropped your deer with a well placed arrow, you have achieved your main objective. The problem now is to translate the carcass into a supply of suc­culent steaks, chops, roasts, and other cuts. Time is of the essence and the work necessary to get the carcass under refrigeration in prime condition should be performed promptly. If this time factor is kept in mind, a novice need not be deterred from attempting the job.</span></p>
<p><span>Approach a fallen big game animal carefully from the back. The animal may not be dead and the danger of being struck by sharp hooves, if the animal struggles to rise on your approach, should not be ignored. If a deer is still alive shoot an arrow through the neck just under the ear. This shot will kill the deer cleanly and will help bleed the animal. Blood lowers the quality of the meat and also its ability to keep. Even though the animal has bled internally it does no harm to attempt to increase bleed­ing by sticking the animal with your hunting knife. A small sheath knife with a good thin blade four to five inches in length is preferred for use in dressing out a big game animal. A deer should be stuck at the base of the neck several inches in front of the breast bone. Plunge the knife in to the hilt and cut across the neck with a slicing draw just sufficient to sever the carotid arteries where they join midway between the shoulders. Although authorities differ on the practical results obtained by sticking a deer, it should be remembered that sticking a deer while it is alive is a dangerous operation and should not be attempted by a novice, and sticking is of doubt­ful value when the heart has ceased to beat and the animal is dead. If you do stick the animal, arrange the carcass so that the head is downhill or raise the rear portion of the animal so that blood will drain freely by gravity.</span></p>
<p><span>There is no argument, however, about the necessity and value of dressing out your deer immediately. If you are hunt­ing alone, the work can best be accomplished if the animal is arranged on sloping ground with the head and back on the up slope. A stout length of Manila line should be carried with you on all big game hunting trips. Use this line to tie one hind leg out of the way while you are working on the animal. If you have a hunting partner the deer can be hung from a stout limb by the head or the head and forequarters raised from the ground. Take your time and work carefully. The operation of viscerating a deer is not difficult, neither does it need to be a messy operation.</span></p>
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<p><span>Make an incision through the hide and belly muscle at a point about eight inches back of the end of the breast bone, large enough to insert two fingers of the left hand as shown in Figure 52.</span></p>
<p><span>Use the back of the left hand to push the paunch and intestines out of the way to prevent cutting them. Continue the opening to a point just short of the tail, taking care not to puncture any organs while you are making the cut. Cut around the genitals on both sides and cut the hide in a complete circle around and close to the anus. Pull out the large intestine. The genitals and anus should come out -with the intestine by reaching into the belly cavity and pulling the anus through. Remove the small intestine and the stomach. The carcass at this point is termed hog-dressed; the kidneys, liver, and the &#8220;pluck,&#8221; which is the term used to describe the heart, lungs, gullet, and windpipe, remain in the carcass. If at this point you feel that you can transport your deer to a refrigeration plant within an hour you need do noth­ing further. There is no objection to flushing blood and dung out of the carcass with pure cold water. Bacterial growth is retarded by this action. Again the authorities differ. Some rec­ommend using a dry cloth or a clean piece of burlap for this purpose and warn against the use of water, although they give no reason why the use of water would be harmful.</span></p>
<p><span>Alone, you will probably find it necessary to drag out your deer to the nearest road. It is also safer than packing it out and having some excited hunter take a shot at you during the process. Tie a rope around the antlers or around the neck in case of an antlerless deer, bring the rope forward and throw a half hitch around the upper jaw. Tie a stout cross piece of wood to the other end of the rope to provide a handle. If the country is too rough to drag the deer or you wish to save some wear and tear on the hide, you may choose to carry the deer across your shoulders. If your deer is too large for a one man carry, you can lash it securely to a pole to provide a two man carry. In the latter case, take several turns of the rope around the body of the deer to hold it securely against the pole throughout its length. This will minimize the swaying of the carcass from side to side and make a satisfactory carry to your car. In any case drape a piece of red cloth over the carcass as a safety measure.</span></p>
<p><span>Let us now assume that our procedure is to be governed by the knowledge that it will take us at the outside about four hours to reach the refrigerating plant from the time we made the kill. In this case we should dress out the deer com­pletely at the site of the kill. Cut around the perimeter of the diaphragm, sever the gullet and windpipe as far forward as you can reach and draw all the organs from the chest cavity. The liver, heart, and kidneys can be placed in a plastic bag which the hunter should carry for this purpose. They are good eating and should not be discarded. Since the weather is warm you should have an axe handy with which to split the pelvic or &#8220;aitch&#8221; bone (where the hind legs are jointed) and the breast bone to permit the carcass to cool more rapidly. Considerable round can be wasted if this operation is performed carelessly. Cut two sticks and insert them between the walls of the body cavity to hold the cavity open to permit free circulation of air. Neglect of these precautions, delay in dressing out, or failure to cool completely and rapidly are things that can and should be avoided. Whenever the deer is not being transported the carcass should be hung immediately in a cool shady place, either by the head or the hind legs with the sides propped open to continue the cooling out process.</span></p>
<p><span>The third and last assumption that we shall consider is the case where we are faced with the necessity of holding the deer in camp during warm weather for a period of time in excess of four hours. Proceed to skin out your deer and quarter it. If the hide is permitted to remain on the carcass throughout the cooling out process the oil in the hair follicles is drawn inward through the skin and taints the flesh. The reason most deer smell when skinned out is failure to perform this operation soon enough when the temperature is above 40 de­grees. A greenish tinge appearing on the flesh indicates that bac­terial action has started and the flesh will be tainted. After the carcass is thoroughly cooled out it may be cut in quarters and wrapped in clean cheese cloth or the quarters may be placed separately in plastic bags made especially for this purpose. The covering will protect the meat from flies when the weather is warm and dust and foreign material will not be able to reach the meat when you travel. Prop the hood of the luggage com­partment of your automobile in an open position so that fresh air can circulate freely around each individual package.</span></p>
<p><span>If you are going to skin out and quarter your deer in camp, a light weight hacksaw with a large toothed blade, or a butcher&#8217;s saw should be available. In an emergency, an ordinary hand saw will serve the purpose. It is a difficult task to split a back­bone with an axe and a considerable amount of good meat can be mangled in the process. To attempt to split the carcass on either side of the backbone results in poorer cuts and more waste than when the backbone is sawed in half.</span></p>
<p><span>To skin out your deer, lay the carcass on a clean floor or cloth. Open the skin over the hock and down the inside of the legs to the body cavity. Skin out the hocks and remove the feet at the point where the &#8220;cannon&#8221; bone joins the enlarged hock. Make up a spreader as shown in Figure 53. Make an opening at the tendon at the rear of the leg and suspend the carcass as shown in the illustration. Remove the forelegs at the break joint which is located at the lower part of the knee enlargement. It is a smooth joint and is easily severed with a knife. Slit the hide along the inside of the front legs from the joint to the body cavity. In event you wish to mount the head make your next cut A around the neck at the shoulder, and open the skin on the neck as shown by the dotted lines in Figure 54. It is better to err on the safe side by taking too much rather than too little skin from the shoulders. Make cut B along the top or back of the neck to a point about three inches from the base of the antlers. Make cut C and D and pry away from the base of the antlers with a screw driver or some other blunt instrument.</span></p>
<p><span>The skin should now be removed from the neck forward toward the head. When the ears are reached the ear cartilage is severed just under the skin and close to the skull, leaving the ears attached to the skin. Carefully skin around the eyes and lips and be sure the inner edges of the lips are left on the skin. Skin around the nose using care not to cut through the nostrils and leave plenty of cartilage on the skin at the end of the nose.</span></p>
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<p><span>Figure 53                                              Figure 54</p>
<p>Remove blood stains on the hair of the &#8220;cape&#8221; or neck by sponging with plenty of clean water. Scrape the skin free of fat and flesh. Rub salt thoroughly into the flesh side of the skin and into the ears, nostrils, eyelids, and mouth. Fail­ure to salt every bit of the flesh-side of the hide may cause the hair to drop out of the other side. Spread the cape, hair-side down, on a clean dry surface. A brine will form within 48 hours. The head is removed from the carcass by cutting across the Adam&#8217;s apple to the Atlas joint, Figure 55. This joint on the neck has muscle attachment only and no interlock­ing bones. The cape should be folded skin to skin and, to­gether with the head on which the exposed meat has been well salted, sent to a taxidermist for mounting. The under side of the neck meat can be split and the gullet and windpipe re­moved prior to skinning the hide from the remainder of the carcass.</span></p>
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<p><span> </span></p>
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<td height="14" align="left" valign="top">Figure 55.</td>
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<p><span> </span></p>
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<p>Figure 57                                   Figure 58</td>
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<p><span>The  four principal steps employed in skinning out the bal­ance of the carcass are  illustrated in Figures <strong>$6 </strong>to 59 inclusive.</span></p>
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<img title="archery equipment" src="http://archeryequipment.org/images/archeryequipment26_clip_image010.jpg" alt="archery equipment" width="303" height="268" /><br />
Figure 59.</p>
<p>Very little knife work is necessary to remove the skin from the carcass. Figure 57 shows the position of the hands in pull­ing the hide loose from the back and loin. To avoid tearing the thin muscle covering the side, Figure 58 shows how the closed fist and knife handle are used to help separate the hide and prevent tearing. After the sides are free, the skin is easily pulled from the ribs in the manner shown in Figure 59. When the shoulders are reached the skin is best removed by fisting until the forelegs are freed. From this point it is a simple matter to pull the hide free from the carcass at the shoulders. Use plenty of clean water to wash all hair and blood from the carcass, and remove blood stains on the hair by sponging with luke warm water. Rub the skin-side of the pelt with a liberal amount of good, clean, fine salt to avoid mineral stains, and spread the pelt, hair-side down on a clean dry table or floor. When the brine forms, and within 48 hours, the pelt should be folded skin to skin, and sent to the tanner as soon as you reach home. If the head and cape have been prepared for mount­ing and shipment to a taxidermist is delayed, check the salt covering on the flesh side of the cape skin at intervals and resalt any thinly covered sections. If you have done a conscientious job of dressing out, skinning, and quartering your deer as suggested in this chapter, and you comply fully with the recom­mendations for transporting the animal, you should be able to deliver the carcass to your butcher in prime condition.</p>
<p>While we have discussed the method of handling your deer during warm weather, it should be remembered that venison should never be permitted to freeze if an unseasonable cold snap hits your hunting area. Venision like good beef is improved by hanging in the &#8220;aging room&#8221; at the locker plant for a week or 10 days. If you are going to do your own meat cutting, the carcass can be aged in the storage compartment of your family deep freezer or refrigerator (not in the quick freezing compartment). Meat is aged at a constant temperature of ap­proximately 40 degrees.</span></p>
<p><span>Whether or not you choose to cut up your deer, a knowl­edge of the different cuts of meat is essential to preparing them for the table. Not all cuts of venison are cooked in the same manner. A diagram of the various cuts is shown in Figure 60. These cuts are not arbitrary and they may be varied to suit the individual. In a case where the deer has been quartered and aged in the home freezer we would proceed as follows: Lay a hind quarter on the cutting table inside down and remove the leg by cutting close to and in front of the hip bone at A, Figure 60. Place the outside of the leg down on the table and remove the portion of flank (12a), sever the rump (4) from the round by cutting below and close to the pelvic or aitch bone (line F). The rump makes a good pot roast. About five or six steaks can be cut from the round. These must be Swissed or braised unless they are taken from a young buck or doe, in which case they may be broiled. The heel (2) is suitable for a pot roast, boiling or grinding. The rear shank (1) should be finely ground for meat balls or sausage.</span></p>
<p><span> </span></p>
<p><span><img title="archery equipment" src="http://archeryequipment.org/images/archeryequipment26_clip_image01.jpg" alt="archery equipment" width="389" height="180" /><br />
Figure  60.</span></p>
<p><span> </span></p>
<p><span>The flank (12) should be cut from the loin (5) along line D and treated in the same manner as the rear shank. The loin can be used as an oven roast or it may be cut into loin chops about three-fourths of an inch thick.</span></p>
<p><span>Next lay a front quarter, inside down, on the cutting table and cut between the fourth and fifth or the fifth and sixth ribs, B Figure 60. Separate the breast (11) from the ribs section (6) along the line D. The rib section (6) is cut into rib chops three-fourths of an inch thick, and the breast (11) is palatable when ground for sausage or meat loaf. Remove the neck from the shoulder by cutting as indicated by line C, Figure 60.</span></p>
<p><span>The shoulder joint is very prominent and is disjointed by cutting around the top of the enlargement, indicated by the slight curve of line D between cuts (7) and (9). Use a saw if you are unable to locate the joint. The shank (10) is sawed off and the meat ground. The arm (9) is used for ground meat or mince meat and the top of the shoulder or chuck (7) makes a good pot roast and may be boned and rolled easily. The neck (8) may be made into pot roasts, and the neck slices (8a) may be braised or used for stew, mince meat or ground meat.</span></p>
<p><span><br />
<strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Cooking Venison</span></strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;"> </span></span></p>
<p><span><strong>Sausage. </strong>The less tender pieces of venison ground with fat pork (pork that is about 50 to 60 percent lean) are used to make sausage. Mix venison and pork in equal parts. In case sausage is to be kept in a deep freeze, it should be packed unseasoned in waxed containers. Unseasoned sausage will keep fresh in the deep freeze five or six months, whereas seasoned sausage will turn flat and rancid in 30 to 45 days when stored under the same conditions. Thaw and season to taste with salt, pepper, and a pinch of ground sage, if desired just before using.</span></p>
<p><span><strong>Meat  Loaf. </strong>Meat loaf can be made by grinding fresh pork fat with the venison in the proportion of one pound of fat to 10 pounds of venison.</span></p>
<p><span>Venison can be cooked by the housewife using the same methods that would be employed to cook similar cuts of beef. The fat may be removed from venison before cooking, since it has a tendency to cling to the roof of the mouth while eating. To keep the meat from becoming too dry, suet, pork fat, or bacon may be mixed with ground venison, and strips of bacon or salt pork may be placed on top of the roasts while they are cooking. Tender cuts of meat are cooked by dry heat and the less tender cuts by moist heat. The meat from an aged animal, buck or doe, will be appetiz­ing and tender if proper care is taken in cooking. Tomatoes, onion, garlic, spices, and herbs may be added if venison flavor is objectionable to anyone. The tender cuts, such as rib and loin chops, round steak, and leg roasts, can be pan-broiled, oven-broiled, or roasted. The neck, shanks, chuck, and breast, should be cooked with moist heat when they are not ground to make sausage, mince meat and meat loaf.</span></p>
<p><span><strong>Roast  Venison. </strong>(Loin  and round.) An oven roast may be prepared from the loin or round of a doe or young buck. </span></p>
<p><span>Season with salt and pepper to taste. Place on a rack in a shallow pan in a preheated slow oven, 3000 to 32 50 F. Do not cover or add water. Lay strips of fat bacon or beef suet across the top of the meat to baste the venison as it roasts. Allow 20 to 25 minutes per pound.</span></p>
<p><span><strong>Roast Leg of Venison. </strong>If the deer is a small one, a leg can be roasted as is a leg of  lamb. The directions for Roast Venison apply.</span></p>
<p><span><strong>Broiled Venison Steaks and Chops. </strong>(Round, loin, and rib.) Turn the oven regulator to broil and preheat the broiler. Place meat on greased rack in broiler about two inches from the flame. Leave oven door open slightly. Broil until top side is nicely brown (about five to seven minutes) then turn to other side for an equal period of time. Venison should be well browned on the surface but cooked rare. Season with salt and pepper or parsley butter and serve immediately.</span></p>
<p><span><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Parsley  Butter</span></strong><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;"> </span></strong></span></p>
<p><span><strong>1/2 </strong>cup of butter or margarine worked until creamy, add 1/2 teaspoon salt, dash of pepper, 1/4teaspoon finely chopped parsley and finally work in very slowly 3/4table­spoon of lemon juice.</span></p>
<p><span><strong>Pan-Broiled  Venison Steaks or Chops. </strong>(Round, loin, and rib.) Rub a heavy iron or aluminum frying pan with a little fat, and preheat. Steaks and chops should be about three-quarters inch thick. Do not cover pan and do not add water. Turn meat occasionally. Cook from 15 to 20 minutes. Do not overcook. Season with parsley butter and serve at once.</span></p>
<p><span><strong>Braised  Venison. </strong>(Shoulder, neck, breast, shank, and chuck.) Season with salt and pepper. Rub well with flour. Brown both sides slowly in hot fat in a heavy skillet. Add about one cup of water and cover, cook very slowly until tender. Requires two to three hours. Turn meat occasionally. </span></p>
<p><span><strong>Pot  Roast. </strong>(Rump, Shoulder, neck with tendons removed.) Brown meat slowly on all sides in a Dutch oven, pressure cooker, or other heavy utensil. Roll meat in flour and season with salt, pepper, and herbs to taste. Add 1/4to 1/2cup of water and cover tightly. Cook at low temperature, below the boiling point, until meat is tender (about 2<strong>l/2 </strong>to 3 hours). If a pressure cooker is employed, follow the directions given in the manual for beef. Vegetables, such as carrots, onions, potatoes, and celery may be added when the meat is about three-quarters done.</span></p>
<p><span><strong>Gravy. </strong>The liquid from the pot roast is used to make gravy. Bring the liquid to a boil. Make a smooth paste of flour and water. Add a small amount of the liquid to the paste and stir well to prevent lumps. Add this mixture to the liquid in the vessel, a little at a time, and stir constantly to prevent the formation of lumps. Boil about three minutes. The amount of flour paste added to the liquid will govern the consistency of the gravy. Season to taste.</span></p>
<p><span><strong>Swiss Steak. </strong>(Round.) Take two pounds of round steak sliced one to two inches thick. Roll meat in flour and pound in. Season with salt and pepper and brown both sides slowly in a heavy skillet which has been lightly greased and preheated. Add one and one-half cups of water or canned tomatoes, and three large sliced onions. Cover tightly and cook slowly on top of the stove or in a slow oven 3250 F., for 1<strong>l/2 </strong>to 2 hours or until tender. Remove meat and make gravy from the liquid. If a pressure cooker is used, the time should be reduced accord­ingly.</span></p>
<p><span><strong>Stew. </strong>(Neck,  heel, and arm, also breast or shoulder.) Take two pounds of meat and cut into 1 1<strong>/2 </strong>inch cubes. Roll in flour and brown in a heavy skillet which has been lightly greased and preheated. Remove meat to a kettle and add 3 cups boiling water, 2 teaspoons of salt and 1/4teaspoon of pepper. Pour one cup of boiling water into skillet and stir to obtain the meat flavor. Add to the liquid in the kettle. Cover and simmer (cook slowly at low temperature) until the meat is tender. This will take about two hours unless a pressure cooker is used. Dice 4 medium-sized potatoes, 4 carrots, 4 medium sized onions, and add these vegetables to the kettle and cook an additional 20 minutes or until tender. If necessary add more water as the meat cooks. The stew may be thickened by adding 2 tablespoons of flour, which has been mixed with water to make a thin paste, stirring as the stew boils<br />
<strong>Meat  Loaf. </strong>(Neck,  flank, shank, and breast.) Grind 2<strong>l/2 </strong>pounds of meat and 1/4 pound of beef suet or salt pork. Mix thoroughly. Add 2 teaspoons salt and dash of pepper, 3/4 cup of dry bread crumbs, 2 eggs beaten lightly, 3/4 cup of milk, and 1/2small onion chopped fine. Mix thoroughly, shape into a loaf, place in a greased baking pan, and bake <strong>2l/2 </strong>hours in a moderate oven, 3500 F.</span></p>
<p><span><strong>Liver  and Onions. </strong>Pour boiling water over the liver twice. Drain. Dip liver in flour and brown in heavy iron skillet in bacon fat. Season with salt, add 2 cups of water cover and allow to simmer slowly for 1 hour. Remove liver from skillet and brown 2 cups of sliced onions. Replace liver, add 1 cup of water, cover, and simmer slowly <strong>l/2 </strong>hour. </span></p>
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		<title>Food and Cover Program for a Field Course</title>
		<link>http://www.archeryequipment.org/food-and-cover-program-for-a-field-course/</link>
		<comments>http://www.archeryequipment.org/food-and-cover-program-for-a-field-course/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 11 Jul 2010 16:19:19 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[Programs]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.archeryequipment.org/?p=1184</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Hunting small game with the bow can turn out to be a frustrating instead of an exciting experience. Providing a chance to sharpen your powers of observation and to test your marksmanship with the bow, small game hunting quickly loses its appeal when a two hour tramp fails to produce a single piece of game. [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>H</strong>unting small game with the bow can turn out to be a frustrating instead of an exciting experience. Providing a chance to sharpen your powers of observation and to test your marksmanship with the bow, small game hunting quickly loses its appeal when a two hour tramp fails to produce a single piece of game. Many of us can remember when the same or a similar area of land contained a plentiful supply of small game. Many theories have been advanced, for the diminishing numbers of small game encountered in the hunting field; drought, increased hunting pressure, maturity of the second growth forests in the Eastern United States, shorter working hours in industry, improved highways and rapid means of transportation have all had to bear at least a portion of the blame. Changes in agricultural practices including: the intro­duction of the electric fence with its single strand of barbed wire, the high speed mowing machine, and intensive cultivation of every foot of land have made serious inroads on the wildlife population.</p>
<p><span>In the Prairie States vast acreages of grass lands were turned under with the plow; and marshes and swamps were drained. The gradual lowering of the water table and erosion of the soil has forced abandonment of these farms by their owners. The good top soil has either been blown or washed away and there no longer remains sufficient food and cover to support wildlife once abundant in the area.</span></p>
<p><span>Nature is an ever changing process and all life must adapt itself to changing conditions in order to survive. Too frequently man in his effort to improve his individual status has hastened this change and the immediate gain has subsequently been followed by unexpected losses which have been detrimental to the general welfare. The destruction of our forests and overgraz­ing of grass lands have turned once fertile areas of the earth&#8217;s surface into waste lands; and where once the riches of nature were abundant on every side, they now are insufficient for man&#8217;s survival. Close at home we see the barren hillsides, eroded and gully washed fields of farms from which during heavy rains the remainder of the top soil is rapidly being carried away by silt laden streams. Soil, which is essential for all life, and which took nature hundreds of years to produce, has been recklessly wasted during our lifetime.</span></p>
<p><span>How many of us have considered that the decline in our wildlife population is closely allied to the loss of soil and the reduction of ground water supplies due to misuse of entire watersheds and improper and consequently unprofit­able farming methods? Conservation is now widely advocated. Not only is it essential to our general welfare but it is also profitably practiced by individuals. Modern farming methods based on sound conservation principles have resulted in in­creased productivity of the soil and consequently increased in­come for the land owner. The term, conservation, is widely mis­understood and is frequently assumed to denote a system which advocates voluntary or governmental restriction of the use of nature&#8217;s products, including wildlife. The opposite is, of course, the case. Good conservation practices applied to the land result in greater income to the land owner from improved crops and the land increases in value. Actually conservation is aimed at the retention of top soil and water on the land. Ways to prevent the reduction of the water supply and loss of top soil, and at the same time preserve or increase the productivity of the land are the tools of the conservationist. Contour strip cropping and rotation of crops on the better field areas of farm lands, plant­ing trees, shrubs, vines, clovers and grasses to stabilize soil and retain water on steep slopes and gullies, selective lumbering of the forested areas and management of woodlots are but a few of the methods by which the humus content of the soil can be increased, and the water table raised, so that the land will once more produce not only an abundance of the needs of man but supply in addition the food and cover so essential to wildlife.</span></p>
<p><span>It should be increasingly evident that we cannot expect to depend solely on the efforts of our Game and Wildlife Officials for an adequate supply of small game. The propogation and release of game birds and animals are only one phase of the wildlife management problem. If we are to improve our hunting we must provide suitable habitat for wildlife. That means primarily food and cover, and we must do it as groups and as individuals. It is just wishful thinking to expect the conservation departments of the various states, and more especially those whose duties embrace the field of wildlife man­agement, to do this work. They can and do provide tech­nical advice and assistance in the planning stage of a project, and they have established pilot projects where the success of the suggested practices is evident to even a casual observer. The success of the plan on a large scale is rightly dependent on the individual land owner to whom the benefits will accrue if the suggested practices are adopted.</span></p>
<p><span>The archery club which has purchased land and constructed a field course, and the hunting and fishing clubs which have purchased extensive acreage of abandoned or sub-marginal farm land have generally failed to realize the potential benefits which would accrue to the club from the adoption of a long range food and cover program to increase the wildlife population on their own property. Such a program, prepared with the assist­ance of the Game, Fish, and Forestry Departments does not require a large financial outlay. Seedlings, fertilizer, and seed for food plots will require cash, but the balance of the program and it&#8217;s ultimate success depend primarily on a plen­tiful and enthusiastic supply of voluntary labor. Any long term overall plan can be subdivided into dozens of small proj­ects which can be undertaken by a single individual or a small group as their contribution to the general plan. Properly admin­istered and publicized the plan will be enthusiastically sup­ported by the labor of the members and can be carried to a successful conclusion when every member can see how his individual effort contributes to the rehabilitation of the land.</span></p>
<p><span>Too many clubs are releasing pen raised birds on sub-marginal land which will not support a wildlife population in its present state. Birds released under such unfavorable condi­tions must scatter far and wide if they are to survive and little improvement is noticeable in the number of birds seen on the home range. Continuing day-after-day care is required to raise birds for liberation and unless favorable conditions for their survival exist or are created on the club grounds the program does not prove satisfactory and the project is abandoned. </span></p>
<p><span>Management of agriculture, wildlife, and woodland areas on many of the sub-marginal or abandoned farms now owned by sportsmen&#8217;s groups is directed toward developing the acreage for wildlife. The treatment of the land differs from practices approved for farm lands where the primary objective is a continuing cash profit from farm crops. Although they work toward different objectives, the farmer and the sportsmen find that modern farming practices and a food and cover program for wildlife have much in common. Both must take measures to stop the loss of soil from erosion caused by wind and water and each is concerned with increasing the productivity of the land. The aim of the sportsman is adequate food and cover to support a wildlife population on the land.</span></p>
<p><span>Gully-washed fields, eroded and barren hillsides, abandoned fields which produce a straggly crop of wire grass, wood lots where over crowding and large trees prevent an undergrowth of shrubs and vines so necessary to wildlife, is unfortunately an accurate description of too many of our club properties and in particular the many field courses recently constructed by the bowhunters. To change this picture is not only desirable but necessary if the average bowman expects to find any game during the course of a morning&#8217;s hunt. While hunting may not be desirable on the field course, the course might well be set aside as a refuge and propagation area from which the game would spread to adjacent lands.<br />
Where a well defined land-use plan has been followed, the increase in the wildlife population can reach startling propor­tions. In the State of Pennsylvania a Farm-Game Project coop-erator requested a Game Warden to provide additional feed for the ring-neck pheasants on his property during the owner&#8217;s absence in the month of January. The Game Warden re­ported there were by actual count over 200 hen pheasants and 32 cock birds on this property and the two adjoining farms.</span></p>
<p><span>In addition the Warden live-trapped 16 rabbits during the month. The reason for the concentration of game in such numbers is attributed to multiflora rose hedge, coral berry, evergreens and a few small briar patches.</span></p>
<p><span>Much of the work necessary to transform your barren club property into a suitable habitat for wildlife can be self-supporting; other operations will require the labor of the interested bowhunters and other members of sportsmen&#8217;s clubs. Recommended practices for development of the land are varied and numerous. Many of them are so simple of application that once introduced and after viewing the results, we are rather embarrassed at our lack of vision. Gradual development of the club property over a period of years is a goal that is easily obtainable without straining the finances of the parent organ­ization.</span></p>
<p><span>Thus far we have discussed generally the need for habitat improvement in order to increase the wildlife population. Habitat may be improved by any of the following practices. As single projects, each one is beneficial to wildlife. The fol­lowing portions of the text describe practices applicable to the Middle Atlantic States. However, they illustrate a general pattern which may be changed and adapted to any part of the country, substituting plantings and farming methods which have proven successful.</span></p>
<p><span>Farming Fields. These are the better soil sites which have undergone the least erosion. Local farmers can be interested in a share cropping agreement, whereby they undertake to farm certain fields on a crop rotation basis, planting corn with a ryegrass cover crop one year, wheat or oats the second year and then seeding clover which should stand two or more years. In return the club may either take a share of the harvested grains, or arrange with the share-cropper to plant other food strips without charge.</span></p>
<p><span>Field Hedges. Establish contour hedges approximately 36 feet wide between crop fields. Tatarian honeysuckle, arrow-wood, and multiflora rose can be used for the center rows. Bicolor lespedeza may be planted next, with the outside strip seeded to sericea lespedeza. On open field areas these wide hedges provide wildlife with natural food and cover adjacent to the cropland. Lespedezas make good-quality food for quail in parts of the Middle and South Atlantic States. Since the lespedezas are legumes, which supply their own nitrogen after the first year, they are valuable crops in a program of soil improvement. Many of them provide excellent cover for erod­ing areas.</span></p>
<p><span>Field Edges And Odd Comers. Field edges of crop lands adjacent to fence rows or woodland borders are equally as important in the wildlife program as the crop grown on the field. The share-cropper should be instructed to seed a 30 foot food strip to sericea lespedeza or a grass-clover mixture. Equipment may be turned on these field ends if due care is taken to protect game birds nesting in the area. When fields are contoured, odd corners of ground remaining at various loca­tions are valuable assets. These spots will provide safe nesting areas for wildlife and they may be planted to any one or a combination of the shrubs mentioned for hedge row plantings or seeded to sericea lespedeza or a grass-clover mixture. Very often the natural reproduction of shrubs and vines will improve the food and cover on these areas.</span></p>
<p><span>Permanent Sod. Permanent grass-clover areas should be maintained above steep fields. To establish small grains such as wheat, rye, or barley they should be planted in the fall; then seed permanent type grass-clover mixture the following spring, or plant oats thinly in the spring and seed at the same time with the grass-clover mixture. The areas should be mowed late each summer to stimulate succulent growth. This can be done by the farmer who handles the share cropping activities. </span></p>
<p><span>These areas are used by nesting birds and rabbits. The value of these areas which produce greens and insect life for young birds to feed upon is dependent upon suitable cover immedi­ately adjacent thereto. They do not serve their intended dual purpose of preventing erosion and providing food for wildlife if small game has to cross open spaces to reach the plot.</span></p>
<p><span>Nut Tree And Fruit Orchards. Trees and shrubs, including walnut, hickory, Asiatic chestnut, and filbert may be planted as orchard crops. Part of the nut yield should be left for wild­life and if necessary a portion of the crop may be sold to defray development and maintenance costs. The young trees will have to be protected by wire mesh screening from rabbits and a sapling and brush inclosure will need to be erected around each tree if deer are present in the vicinity. Young trees have almost no chance of survival where deer can browse on the tender shoots. The area in which the trees are planted should be cultivated and seeded to clovers. Mow annually and mulch the trees with hay and weeds. Prune to provide shape and clearance for cultivating and harvesting. Apple trees also provide an important food for wildlife. Fallen fruits and pruned branches are eaten by rabbits during the fall and winter months.</span></p>
<p><span>Managing Old Orchards. Neglected orchards can be man­aged to provide an abundant supply of food and cover. Fell the maple, locust, aspen, ash and other timber which has become established in the orchard and is robbing the old apple trees of the necessary sunlight. Pile the tops to provide cover. The old fruit trees should be severely pruned during the winter months to improve the quality of the fruit. Pile the branches to provide both food and cover for rabbits. Fallen apples also provide food for ring-necked pheasants, grouse, deer and foxes.</span></p>
<p><span>Old Fence Rows. Large maple, ash, locust and aspen trees growing in old fence rows should be felled to permit sunlight to reach the mixture of shrubs growing beneath them. Full sunlight will increase the fruit yield of shrubs and vines such as blackberry, raspberry, grape, greenbriar, choke cherry, sassa­fras, and flowering dogwood. Limbs and tops of the felled trees should be piled to provide cover. An exception to this practice is to spare an old den tree, since squirrels, raccoons and cavity nesting birds require hollow trees for their homes. Incidentally, &#8220;one-eighth&#8221; wooden beer kegs with a two-inch hole bored in them make wonderful squirrel dens. Field hedges which have been planted between crop fields should be tied into these old fence rows or to woodland borders to provide continuous sheltered lanes of travel for wildlife.</span></p>
<p><span>Eroded Hillside Areas. At these locations on the club prop­erty wildlife cover can be improved by seeding the steepest slopes to one of the shrub lespedezas. All shrub lespedezas are perennials that grow from 4 to 8 feet high and prevent erosion wherever they are planted. They are particularly good for gully control. These plantings should be made in strips along the contour. In alternate strips or on the gentler slopes, ever­green seedlings may be planted. Planted yearly in lots of 500 to 1000 depending on the space available, they can be marketed in various sizes over three feet tall for Christmas trees. Seed­lings of Scotch pine, Austrian pine, red pine, and Norway spruce may be purchased from commercial nurserymen. Seed­lings can often be obtained at a nominal cost from State nurseries under an agreement to permit the trees to grow and reforest the area. Trees obtained in this manner can not be sold as Christmas trees. The financial condition of each individual club will govern the method employed. The primary purpose of the plantings is to stabilize the soil, prevent rapid run off of surface water, and especially to provide cover for wildlife.</span></p>
<p><span>Waste Areas. Old building foundations, outcrops of rock, and sink holes provide retreat areas, and when trees, shrubs and vines become established they produce a good supply of food for wildlife. On large areas a central planting of 25 or 30 evergreens spaced about eight feet apart will provide year round cover. Thornapple, multiflora rose, arrowwood, gray dogwood and hazelnut seedlings, spaced four feet apart may be planted around the evergreens.</span></p>
<p><span>Stream Banks. Badly eroded stream banks should be sloped and then planted with shrubs native to wet soils. Basket willow, elderberry, red ozier dogwood, and silky dogwood, are suitable plantings. They may be spaced about three feet apart. The newly sloped bank should be mulched with branches held in place with willow stakes and wire. Along the top of the bank, added protection and increased food and cover for wildlife may be attained by planting a row of multiflora rose, spaced about three feet apart.</span></p>
<p><span>Wood Lots. Shrubs ana vines produce more fruits ana heavier foliage when grown in the open sunlight. Large timber should be marked and sold for saw logs. The cut may be lim­ited to definite species and minimum diameters. Clumps of shrubs are released from competitive growth by felling trees away from the shrubs or cutting and piling the tops. Drop trees with vines on the top of the piles to form natural arbors. Harvesting of all trees on scattered plots of approximately one acre will provide favorable conditions for the growth of shrubs and vines. Tree tops should be piled along one side of the slashing and immediately adjacent thereto food strips contain­ing a mixture of clover and grasses should be planted. Acid soil will benefit by the application of fertilizer and lime. To use a woodlot for pasture destroys its value from the sports­man&#8217;s standpoint. Wildlife cannot compete with cattle or other stock which destroy the food and cover so essential to its survival. Only those farming practices beneficial to wildlife should be permitted on the club properties, and these should be closely supervised to insure the welfare of the wildlife population and not the value of the cash crop is the primary consideration.</span></p>
<p><span>Gullies. Gullies provide excellent havens of refuge for wild­life. They are found on practically all of the sub-marginal farms that have been purchased by local sportsmen&#8217;s clubs. They are formed by water erosion, but the soil must be stabilized and vegetation induced to grow, if they are to be of any benefit to wildlife. The bottoms of deep gullies may be planted to basket willow, elderberry, and red ozier dog­wood; the lower slopes to banks pine and black locust, and the upper slopes to Tatarian honeysuckle, blackhaw, and gray dogwood. If the gullies are shallow and in tillable fields, disc and seed to perennial grasses and clovers. Shrubs may be planted at intervals of 3 feet. The immediate area should be retired from cultivation and the resultant plant growth will reduce erosion and produce food and cover for wildlife which prefers to dwell close to cultivated areas.</span></p>
<p><span>Sericea Lespedeza. Sericea Lespedeza is a deep rooted, bushy perennial standing 2 to 4 feet in height with greenish yellow flowers. Its ability to withstand shade in the unproductive field border between cultivated fields and woodland, makes it very useful as wildlife cover. The seed does not mature farther north than central Pennsylvania. Being a legume it produces its own nitrogen and builds up the fertility of the soil.</span></p>
<p><span>Multiflora Rose. Since a hedge of this species is stock-proof, it is useful as a living fence. It prefers dry to well drained soils and it will grow in almost any place that is not shaded. Multi­flora grows from 6 to 10 feet high and bears a profusion of white flowers in May and June. Multiflora rose does not spread from rootstalks. Drooping side canes, if they touch exposed soil, may take root and grow. Ordinary cultivation practices on adjacent ground will prevent the planting from spreading.</span></p>
<p><span>General. Enough has been written to impress upon the reader the desirability of undertaking a planned food and cover pro­gram to increase the wildlife population on lands owned by the organized sportsmen&#8217;s clubs. The work may progress from year to year and need not impose a financial burden on the membership. Wildlife will be attracted to the property and any releases of pen raised birds or small game will find suitable habitat in the immediate vicinity.</span></p>
<p><span>Specific planting instructions of suitable species of food and cover crops can be obtained from the local Soil Conservation District office, the State Game and Forestry Departments, and your local County Agricultural Agent. A selected list of pub­lications dealing with the subject is included in the Bibliogra­phy. A number of pamphlets may be obtained without charge upon written request to the various agencies. </span></p>
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		<title>A Survey of Bowhunting Opportunities in Various States</title>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 11 Jul 2010 16:18:23 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[Bow Hunting]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Conservation officials responsible for manage­ment of our wildlife resources tell us that the crux of the problem of an adequate supply of game is land. People differ in ideas as to how land best may be used. Forestry, farming, wildlife, and man made works are in conflict one with another because of the scarcity of [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>C</strong>onservation officials responsible for manage­ment of our wildlife resources tell us that the crux of the problem of an adequate supply of game is land. People differ in ideas as to how land best may be used. Forestry, farming, wildlife, and man made works are in conflict one with another because of the scarcity of land, and each competes for its use. The ultimate aim of society as a whole is to provide the maxi­mum of satisfaction and contentment possible under such a conflict of interests.</p>
<p><span>A diversity of interests also exists among members of any particular group, and wildlife administrators are under constant pressure from organized minorities within groups to whom self interest is more important than the welfare of the group as a whole. According to wildlife experts, the educational and recreational aspects of our wildlife resources are the true measure of their value to society and management practices should have these ends in view. On this basis the value of a deer herd in any particular state is not measured by the number of the animals in the herd but by the numbers of persons who seek the deer in its natural habitat and the length of time in which this elusive animal may be legally hunted. To many persons the opportunity to observe deer in the wild state is sufficient reward; others are sportsmen interested only in a buck carrying a trophy rack, while a large number of hunters find just as much sport in hunting a doe as a buck; and when a supply of venison is sought for the family larder, the meat of a yearling doe will prove equal to if not superior to that of a buck. Each year, in increasing numbers bowmen seek to match their skill against the wily deer and other big game animals. It is the studied conclusion of conservation officials in one of our leading big game states that the white tail deer herd can stand an unlimited amount of hunting with the bow and arrow. As a result Wisconsin and Michigan have gradually extended the length of the special archery season and in 1954 Wisconsin had a 51 and Michigan a 36 day season when bear and deer of either sex were legal game for the bowmen.</span></p>
<p><span>Among the several states there is lack of uniformity in the regulations governing bowhunting. Over the past few years a trend toward longer seasons and the inclusion of bear and other game animals to the list that may be hunted during a special archery season is clearly discernible. Pennsylvania was the first state to pass legislation making the bow a legal game weapon. Beginning in 1929, game could be legally taken with the bow throughout the commonwealth during the regular hunting season. Two archery preserves, which have since been discontinued, were set aside for bowhunters in 1937. However, it was not until 1951 that a law was passed which enabled the Game Commission to declare an open season for hunting deer with bows and arrows exclusively. In Pennsylvania, the Game Commission is empowered to fix the time and duration of the special archery season and to declare the sex and descrip­tion of deer which may be legally killed. Beginning in 1951 and in each of the succeeding years there has been a special archery deer season of approximately two weeks duration dur­ing the first half of the month of October. Only bucks are legal game with a limit of one during the combined seasons. A special archery license fee of $2.00 in addition to the regular resident hunting license fee of $3.15 is required. The regular license covers both large and small game. A special archery license is not required to hunt during the regular hunting season.</span></p>
<p><span>Pennsylvania has the sixth largest deer herd in the nation. However, the herd has an unbalanced sex ratio. Special antler-less deer seasons have been held after the regular hunting season over a period of years in an attempt to harvest the surplus of does where the food supply of the range has been depleted. Pennsylvania has not had a hunter&#8217;s choice deer season. From 1951 to 1954 inclusive, bowhunters bought 39,340 special archery season licenses and reported a total kill of 196 bucks.</span></p>
<p><span>Michigan is credited with possessing the largest white tail deer herd in the United States, an estimated 600,000 deer. A resident license to hunt deer and bear costs $3.50. The total kill for the 1954 season was 97,000 deer. Fifteen hundred of these deer were killed by the 29,000 bowhunters who partici­pated in the special archery season for bear and deer of either sex, which extended from October 1 to November 5 and cov­ered the entire state with the exception of two counties. Michigan has had a special archery season since 1937 when two counties were opened to bowhunters from November 1 through November 14. The bowhunter was permitted to shoot bear, and deer with three inch antlers. A total of 194 licenses were issued for that first special archery season and the bow­hunters bag consisted of four deer.</span></p>
<p><span>The Wisconsin white tail deer herd is ranked third largest in the nation, exceeded only by the herds in Michigan and Minnesota. The herd is estimated to number 500,000 deer. Wisconsin established the first special archery deer season in the United States in 1934 when two counties in the south central part of the state were opened to bowhunting from November 24th to November 28th. Bucks not less than one year old were legal game. Forty bowmen registered for the hunt and one lone deer was reported killed. With the exception of the year 1935 when there was no open season for deer, Wisconsin has had an annual special archery season. The length of the special archery season has been increased year after year until in 1954 all of Wisconsin&#8217;s 71 counties were open to bow and arrow deer hunting for a period of 51 days. Bow­hunters have also enjoyed special seasons for hunting bear, turkey, and pheasant. Resident hunters who wish to hunt deer may purchase a license for $2.50. A small game license costs an additional $2.00. Bow and arrow hunting is now considered Wisconsins&#8217; fastest growing outdoor sport. In 1949 an esti­mated 12,000 bowhunters killed 551 deer. This is the highest kill reported during nineteen Wisconsin bowhunting seasons to and including 1953. The year 1953 marked the seventh con­secutive season in which bowmen could hunt a buck, doe, or fawn legally. Annual kill records show a total of 2,867 deer taken by bowhunters in Wisconsin during the 19 years of established bow and arrow deer seasons including the year 1953. The insignificance of the kill indicates a negligible effect on the deer populations, and in the opinion of the authorities there is no need of a reduced season from a game management point of view.</span></p>
<p><span>Reports from Michigan and Wisconsin show that between 5% and 6% of the bowhunters succeed in bringing down a deer during the special archery seasons, while at least 30% of the gunhunters bag a deer during the regular season. The authorities in these states are unanimous in concluding that the sport of bowhunting offers a maximum of recreation with a minimum harvest of game, and where herd reduction is necessary in problem-areas an unlimited amount of bowhunting would have no appreciable effect on the harvest of deer.</span></p>
<p><span>In 1951 West Virginia joined the growing list of the states which have introduced a hunter&#8217;s choice deer season in an attempt to reduce the size of the herd to conform to the avail­able food supply. In 1954 West Virginia deer hunters harvested an estimated 16,672 deer, divided almost equally between bucks and does. The Conservation Commission of the state believes that the hunter&#8217;s choice deer season has proved to be the way to obtain maximum harvest of deer as well as providing a maximum amount of sport to the hunter. The hunter&#8217;s choice seasons have demonstrated that West Virginia is capable of a sustained kill, greater than was ever obtained during bucks only seasons; and it assures West Virginian&#8217;s the opportunity of harvesting the deer surplus legally, instead of permitting it to be wasted through starvation, or old age. In four years, better than 75,000 deer have been cropped in West Virginia, nearly twice as many as were taken in the state in 20 years of hunting only buck deer. West Virginia officials believe that they will be able to harvest deer at a slowly increasing rate until an annual kill of 25,000 deer has been attained.</span></p>
<p><span>The 1954 West Virginia gun season was of three days dura­tion. However, the special archery deer season extended from September 15 to October 16, and November 11 to November 27, a total of 46 days. The regular resident hunting license costing $2.00 entitles a resident to hunt during the special archery deer season. No record of the number of bowhunters who participated in the special archery season is available. A total of twenty-nine deer were reported taken by bowmen; ten of this number were antlered bucks.</span></p>
<p><span> An overall picture of bow hunting in the nation may be gained from an examination of the data shown on the accom­panying chart, Figure 61. The information was supplied through the courtesy of the conservation officials of the various states. The states selected for inclusion in the survey met two general requirements. Geographically they are considered representative of the whole nation and in each of them deer may be legally hunted. Five of the six states which stand at the head of the list in the size of their respective deer herds are included. Minne­sota, which ranks second has not been included, since both Michigan in the number one spot and Wisconsin in third place are considered representative of that geographical area of the nation.</span></p>
<p><span>Summarizing the results obtained from the survey we find that 15 of the 18 states have a special archery deer season. Arizona has set aside special areas for the exclusive use of bow-hunters during the regular season. Eight of the states require the bowman to pay an additional fee to hunt during the special archery season. A regular hunting license is all that is required in the remaining states. In twelve of the states, the bowman has a hunter&#8217;s choice during the special archery deer season. Florida, Pennsylvania, and Vermont restrict the bowhunter to antlered deer during the special archery season.</span></p>
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<p><span>The size and condition of the deer herd in any state is the result of a number of factors: extent of the range, food supply, sex ratio, and gun pressure are major factors which must be taken into consideration by wildlife administrators if we are to obtain the maximum of benefit from the herd. At the turn of the century there was an abundant food supply and the problem consisted in building up a herd. Stocking, closed and still later restricted seasons, and limiting the kill to antlered deer served to build the herd to a size where deer were rapidly depleting the available food supply. Antlerless deer seasons were introduced in an attempt to control the size of the herd. A glance at the chart will show that most of the states have repealed the bucks-only law and permit a hunter&#8217;s choice dur­ing the regular gun season as well as in the special archery season. Results have proved the wisdom of this decision. A better balance has been achieved between the sexes; deer are increasing in size; trophy racks are more in evidence as the herd is brought more nearly in balance with the food supply, and there is less evidence of deer dying from malnutrition during the winter months. Fears that a hunter&#8217;s choice would deplete the herd have been unfounded and the yearly kill is being maintained at an impressive figure.</span></p>
<p><span>The extent of the special archery season in the several states is roughly proportional to the number of years such a season has been in effect within that particular state. A similar pattern runs through each state. The first year a limited area is opened for a few days. In succeeding years the area is enlarged until it includes the entire deer range and the season and bag limits are expanded as more and more persons are attracted to the sport. The 51 day, state-wide, special archery season for bear and any deer which is enjoyed by Wisconsin bowhunters who need purchase only a regular hunting license is an impressive example of what may be accomplished by enlightened wildlife management under present day conditions toward securing the maximum recreational benefits from our wildlife resources.</span></p>
<p><span>LEADING WHITE TAIL  DEER HERDS OF THE UNITED STATES*<br />
Michigan                      600,000<br />
Minnesota                    583,600<br />
Wisconsin                     500,000<br />
Texas                           450,000<br />
New York                    375,000<br />
Pennsylvania                 300,000<br />
* Estimated as of  January 1, 1954. Data supplied by the Pennsylvania Game Commission.</span></p>
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		<title>Bow Hunting Safety Measures</title>
		<link>http://www.archeryequipment.org/bow-hunting-safety-measures/</link>
		<comments>http://www.archeryequipment.org/bow-hunting-safety-measures/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 11 Jul 2010 16:17:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Bow Hunting Safety]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.archeryequipment.org/?p=1180</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Bow hunting is part of the beautiful art of archery and it should not be used to kill animals. In spite of that, hunting is a pastime for several people. It is difficult to stop those who indulge in hunting animals with bows but they should at least take several precautions and safety measures while [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Bow hunting is part of the beautiful art of archery and it should not be used to kill animals. In spite of that, hunting is a pastime for several people. It is difficult to stop those who indulge in hunting animals with bows but they should at least take several precautions and safety measures while going for bow hunting. Some of the most important factors involved in the safety practices in bow hunting are presented here.</p>
<p>Bow Hunting in Groups</p>
<p>If you go alone on a bow hunting venture, the risks are higher. You might get injured accidentally and land into a serious situation. Further, you might be attacked by dangerous animals without warning when you are alone. Hence, hunting in groups is always advisable. When an animal comes into the hunting range, at least one of the hunters would sight it and warn the others. Further, the hunters should keep a safe distance from one another but be able to see the others. This is important when one hunter stops abruptly or trips. The others would be able to help the hunter in trouble immediately. Further, enough first aid materials should be carried along based on the number of persons in the group. The first aid kit should include important items such as insect repellents, snake-bite protection equipment, etc.</p>
<p>Maintenance of Bow Hunting Equipment</p>
<p>The condition of the bow hunting equipment is important when you go on a hunting expedition. The bow should be maintained with great care and attention. You should ensure that the bow is perfect condition and it is not exposed to extreme variations of temperature or humidity. Many bow hunters generally leave their bows outside the camping cabin, so that it is not brought out from the warm confines of the cabin to the cold air of the morning, exposing it to sudden change in temperature.</p>
<p>Similarly, the quivers also need constant inspection, attention and safety measures. On many occasions, the broadhead of the arrow works through the bottom seams of the quiver and injures you when you are carrying it on your back. You can prevent this hazard by fitting a thin sheet of metal such as copper to the inside of the lining at the bottom of the quiver. The metal sheet could be fixed in the shape of a cup with a height of around four inches and fitted tightly to the bottom lining of the quiver. This would prevent the point of the arrow from piercing the bottom of the quiver and injuring your back. At the same time, the metal cup should be reinforced with thick sponge rubber to prevent the broadhead from scrapping against the metal and losing its sharpness. The sponge would also prevent the arrows from clanging against each other and becoming dull.</p>
<p>Common Accidents in Bow Hunting</p>
<p>Majority of the accidents during bow hunting are self-inflicted, due to lack of proper precautions, absence of common sense, and a careless attitude. The hunter should not put the arrow to the bow and nock it before sighting the game. This would avoid injury by the arrow if the hunter stumbled and fell down. Further, the hunter should also be watchful of each step, since even small hurdles in the path could easily trip a person. Falling down and getting pierced by the arrow is a common accident that most hunters had encountered in the past. As such, it is advisable to keep the arrow in the quiver until you sight the game. You should take out the arrow and put it in the bow only when you are sure that the game is in clear sight and within the shooting range.</p>
<p>Further, when you hunt in a group, the possibility of accidentally hitting another hunter definitely exists. The bows used in hunting usually do not have a long range. With short range bows, random shooting against the game could easily hit another hunter in the group. Hence, adequate care should be taken to ensure that the game is clearly sighted and within the range of shooting. The hunters should coordinate themselves, so that only the game is aimed at and shot by one or more hunters. This could be achieved through previously arranged sign language.</p>
<p>The other types of accidents occur when the hunter is not in the process of hunting. Many bow hunters and arrowsmiths had injured themselves while sharpening the point of the arrow or filing an edge. Even serious hand slices had been recorded. Careful handling of the equipment while preparing them for the forthcoming hunting is required. This would help in avoiding injuries to the hand or other parts of the body, even when the sharpening instruments slips from your hand accidentally.</p>
<p>If all the above precautionary and safety measures are meticulously followed in bow hunting, you would be able to avoid all dangers and risks and hunt your favorite game in the safest possible manner.</p>
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		<title>Bow Safety</title>
		<link>http://www.archeryequipment.org/bow-safety/</link>
		<comments>http://www.archeryequipment.org/bow-safety/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 11 Jul 2010 16:17:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Bow Safety]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.archeryequipment.org/?p=1178</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Some pointers on Bow safety to ensure that those archers learn the proper techniques and accidents are minimised Safety is paramount when handling a bow. Just like other modern weapons, there are certain techniques and procedures that should be followed when handling the bow. Remember that loaded bow can kill or in least cause grave [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Some pointers on Bow safety to ensure that those archers learn the proper techniques and accidents are minimised</p>
<p>Safety is paramount when handling a bow. Just like other modern weapons, there are certain techniques and procedures that should be followed when handling the bow. Remember that loaded bow can kill or in least cause grave damage to both humans and other living beings. Never take aim, unless you are ready to shoot. Too many accidents have happened when the lethal weapon was misused or the archer was inexperienced.</p>
<p>Here are some of the points that we would like to discuss to drill the importance of safety</p>
<p>1.    Personal tackle<br />
2.    The Field and the equipment used in the Field<br />
3.    How proper techniques of shooting should be enforced<br />
4.    Safety tips that should also be followed by the instructor.</p>
<p>Proper care for personal tackle</p>
<p>Personal tackle care is extremely important. Respect the bow as it is a lethal weapon and you must ensure that it is always kept in good shape. Inspection of the bow at regular intervals is extremely important. Keep arrows in a safe place unless you are ready to shoot and never lose track of the safety procedures that must be followed even in the most difficult situations.</p>
<p>Your bow should be kept dry and waxed at all points in time. Moisture can kill the effectiveness of the bow. Inspection is a critical area and should be done regularly especially for the limbs. If you do find some nicks, they can be easily fixed with clear nail polish. Your next consideration should be the drawstring. This too needs to be waxed. Part of loading the bow is also loading the drawstring. You must also know the procedure for redrawing the bowstring as well as fixing the loops, when it becomes necessary.</p>
<p>The nocking point is important and as a student, you should also learn to check for the arrow nocks and be able to make a quick restoration if required on the field. The arrow shafts should always be straight, in case they have become crooked, then set them aside. They can always be corrected with an arrow straightner. If the arrow is long and the cracked portion can be removed, then do so. Other archers may be able to use them. Other accessories such as finger guards and arm guards should always be in top condition to meet the field competition standards.</p>
<p>Safety standards should also be met on the archery field</p>
<p>When practising on the field, the grass must be mowed really close, since it makes it easier to find the arrows that go missing. When you find the arrows on the ground, ensure that the ground is covered up to prevent any future accidents for other archers that are practising on the field.</p>
<p>The field equipment that includes the arrow stands should also be in a good condition for effective target practice. They arrow stands should be defined and affixed to the ground to ensure that they don’t fall off on impact with the arrow. If the instructor thinks that the butt has become blunt or isn’t effective, then they should be changed. Frequent practice on the butts can soften them making the arrow safety and control a dangerous issue. Blasts coming out of the whistle should be distinct. If word commands are being used then, make sure that they are said loudly and clearly to avoid confusion at all costs.</p>
<p>Instructors should follow the proper technique for shooting when teaching their students</p>
<p>One of the most common mistakes that are made by the beginners is the arm slap. An arm slap happens when the drawstring due to improper shooting technique hits the arm. In fact it can be dangerous as an arm flap can also hit other archers as well. Instructors need to teach various methods of drawing the string perfectly to ensure that the students can aim at the target. The various techniques of drawing and aiming are known as bow hold, draw hand and hook, raise bow and draw and finally the anchor point.</p>
<p>Sometimes the arrow can land just short off the shooting line or even a few feet further away. In case this happens, you can retrieve the arrow. With your feet planted on the shooting line, you can reach the arrow while using the limbs of the bow. In case the arrow can be reclaimed back, then you can take it back or else, the arrow will be considered as shot.</p>
<p>Look ahead directly in front of you especially when looking for arrows that have gone astray. This will prevent you from stepping into the arrows that are in your path (have gone missing from other people’s bow or even your own). Safety precaution is important unless you wilfully want to be killed or crushed.</p>
<p>Arrows are dangerous whether they are zipping across to the target or whether they are being pulled out from the target practice arrow stand.  To ensure that one doesn’t get hurt, grab the arrow with one hand and hold the stand with another hand and pull the arrow in a twisting portion instead of just pulling it out. You can also use the arrow puller to keep the arrows straight. Brace yourself since the arrow can suddenly come out right in your face. To ensure that you do not hurt or face or eyes, do not get your face close or in direct level with the arrow. Always wear a chest protector that can decrease the chances of bowstring snapping and hurting you.</p>
<p>Instructors should pay special attention to these safety tips and negligence can cause irreparable fatalities</p>
<p>Instructors should pay attention to the technique in which archers are launching their arrows and need to be extremely vigilant. Moreover when target practice is happening, the field are should be closed for other humans and animals. In spite of the field being closed, at times, people or animals may stray in the path of the target practice. The instructor needs to keep a close watch on the field to ensure that nobody wanders in the path.</p>
<p>Students may indulge in horseplay with the archery equipment and the tackle. Desist the students from doing so. The bow is a lethal weapon, that can maim and kill and students should be aware of its power and respect the strength.</p>
<p>During shooting, the archers should be spread out to prevent stray arrows from hitting the archers themselves. The usual recommendation for the placement of the targets for the archers is about six yards from each other. Now there is enough space for the archers to fully practice their skills without the fear of coming in each other’s way.</p>
<p>All students and instructors should be behind the shooting line when the signal for shooting is given. If not, wait for people to clear off the ground before sounding the signal. Don’t show anything to a student when the bow has been drawn. In case a student experiences pain or discomfort during any time, ask them to speak up and take the required medical action immediately. If a back arm slap does happen, apply an ice bag or cold water to prevent the area from swelling. Above all proper techniques for shooting must be shown, taught and reinforced at all points of time.</p>
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